Tengboche to Namche [Day 14]

'Club Namche'

The two guys I share a room with tonight, one has the bed on the left hand side of me, the other the right hand bed. I am already in my bag when they decide to retire for the evening. Almost immediately they manage to fall asleep. One goes silent before gasping and sucking in a lungful of air, whilst the other is rasping steadily.  Stereo snoring... yep, stereo.  I swear I don't sleep a wink. I will not name them... but if they read this blog, they'll know who they were.

I am now sat in the lodge, bleary eyed, writing my diary. It is cold - the dung burner from last night now asleep - out of fuel. Looking around the room, it is covered with posters of expeditions. Everest (South Koreans) 2003; Pumori (Italians); Llotse (South Koreans) 2007; Ama Dablam 2002; K2 (South Koreans) 2006. There is also a poster about Jamling Tensing Norgay's book "Touching My Father's Soul" - which looks like it might be a good read. There are also old photographs of Tengboche Monastry and various Buddhist posters. In the background a radio blares out Nepali political propaganda... and a mix of nationalities come and go for breakfast... Brits, French, Koreans, Nepalis.

This morning the smell of the drains is overpowering, drifting into the lodge. This isn't very conducive to eating breakfast. The term 'drains' is too elaborate for what exists here, as sewage discharges into a pit below the porcelain squat and left to decay... hence the strong smell.

My camera seems to be eating batteries lately... due to the cold temperatures. I must set up my solar panel and recharge them all.

We set off a little later than scheduled - 0815hrs. A long descent down to the Dudh Kosi... and a nice steady climb to Sangsun. The sun shines steadily and the rhododendrons are out in pink force. A very large bird circles above the valley and I grab my camera to take some shots of it. I don't think it is a Golden Eagle, most likely a Lammergeier.

Rhododendrons clinging to the hillside

Out in bloom

Prayer wheel

Well maintained trekking trail

Opportunity to buy souvenirs

Himalayan birch

Lammergeier

Namche

Arriving at Namche, there is a comforting familiarity about the place.  A return to good accommodation, good food... proper sit down toilets and hot showers. Civilisation.

I check in with the duty doctor at the Namche Laboratory (Jo) at 1500hrs and hand her my medical data (this had been copied to a USB drive by the Kiwi doctor at Pheriche). After a further examination and discussion of my current situation, I am 'signed off' as being medically fit again.

I seize the moment and ask for permission to go trekking on my own. This will help offset my disappointment at not getting to Base Camp and might allow me to rejoin my Trek D colleagues as they descend towards Namche. Jo said she would speak with Monty... the Lab boss.

I decide to see if I can get on the internet, however I find this is occupied by the Americans from the Imax team filming our expedition. I decide to try again later rather than waiting.

It is now extremely busy at the Sherwi Khangba Hotel with multiple trekking groups in residence. My current group (Trek C) have just arrived, Trek F are here having been delayed by bad weather flying out from Kathmandu to Lukla, and now Trek G are arriving too.

Trek F happens to be John Caudwell's team (a major sponsor of the whole expedition), hence why the Imax film crew are accompanying him. The accommodation is full to overflowing.

Contingency Plan

I have not been asked to continue with Trek C, so it seems I will have to wait until my original group (trek D) arrive in Namche. I decide to go and check their trekking schedule and discover they are not due in Namche until the 29th April, a day later than I expected. It is only the 25th April today, so I will need to decide what I'm going to do in the interim. Studying my maps, I put a rough plan together.

On the 26th, I will ask permission to trek up the adjacent valley to visit the Thamo Nunnery. We had completed a short section of this route during the Trek D acclimatisation walk, so at least part of the route would be familiar to me. This will involve minimal risk.

I'll use the 27th for personal admin... to organise having a shower and shave, and to sort my kit out.

I will then seek permission to trek back up the Khumbu trail on the 28th, to see how far I can get before surprising my Trek D colleagues as they descend from Dingboche. Excited, I went to layout my plans to the permanent staff.

Whilst I was waiting for a decision to be taken, I bump into Kit Spencer of Summit Trekking (who organises the Nepali side of operations for Jagged Globe). The Summit Hotel (where he is Managing Director), is a fantastic bit of real estate in Kathmandu and a lovely retreat from the hustle and bustle of the city.

Kit is an ex-Gurkha Officer and I have a great deal of respect for what he has built over here and for what he contributes to Nepali society. He is in Namche today overseeing all operations to make sure everything runs smoothly for the Imax team and Caudwell group.

As we sit in the lounge we have a chat and Kit patiently listens to my story of headaches and sickness. He is very understanding, but quite firm in his opinion that the right decision was taken in not allowing me to progress from Pheriche. I could have become a real problem to the group if my health had deteriorated further. His recommendation was - it is best to make the most of my Himalayan experience in other ways. It's not just about getting to Base Camp!

Then the news I'd been waiting for - permission has been granted for me to go solo trekking, as long as I leave details of my route and timings... and check back in afterwards. This clears the issue of my trek to Thamo, but more important to me was the longer trek back up the Khumbu to meet up with my own trekking group.

On this particular matter, I am advised to accompany Trek G to Tengboche and wait there for my group to arrive, in case of any relapse with my headaches. This makes sense I suppose, but I was really looking forward to trekking back up on my own. I am confident that I know the route having covered it twice, once up and then down again. Also I am now feeling extremely fit and well. I promise to myself, I will make the decision what to do after seeing how I perform on my day trek to Thamo.

That evening, after I finally manage to get on the internet and email my wife with the up-to-date position. I am sitting with the members of Trek C, their Sirdar and porters in a private annex of the Namche Lodge. There is a warm hubbub of conversation and the guitar appears again.

A rendition of Trek C's song is given in preparation for the Farewell Party at 'Club Namche' - and I sing along to the chorus: "Hey, hey, feeling blue; Yaks on the mountain two by two; Who'd believe what we've been through; Let's go back to Kathmandu". Of course, having a musical director amongst us (Harry) helps no end.

At 'Club Namche', the evening is a success. Trek C perform their song, as did the Sirdar and his porters. The Club Namche permanent staff do their best to entertain with some type of dance instruction. I just stand at the bar with a beer chatting and philosophising about life in general.

Whilst Trek C are gathered together, I decide to thank them for making me so very welcome. This was politely received and everyone clapped - it will be nice to see them off tomorrow as they head for home - but I will be sad to see them go. I will have to get up early tomorrow (0530hrs) to see Trek C depart for Lukla, so I decide to retire early to the 'dormitory' (six lads sharing together).

A good evening, with good company and a fitting farewell to Trek C - thanks folks for making me so welcome.