Tengboche to Namche [Day 18]

Getting stronger and stronger

I have another good sleep. This morning I actually find a sit-down loo in Tengboche (a rare commodity). On the trail again, I feel really strong and am up front most of the time, bounding up the steep slopes.

There is a strenuous ascent through Khumjung to the Everest View Hotel. A number of people start to drop behind and we arrive in fragmented groups.

Toiling up the slope

One of our guides with Mike (on the right)

Dawa - one of our guides

Arduous path to the Tengboche Monastery (Centre)

Everybody finally reaches the top and wander into the plush hotel. Many order drinks and sit chatting, recovering from the rigours of the day.

Before we leave for Namche, there is the usual problem with trying to get a group of people to pay a bill, exacerbated by the fact many are running short of NR. 

Everest View Hotel

After the bill is paid, we descend the mountain side into Namche. We then have to climb up the numerous steps to the Sherwi Khangba lodge.

It has been a very hot and humid day, so if this continues into tomorrow, I think I will trek out in my shorts. It is three days since I have washed and showered properly, considerably more for my Trek D colleagues following their ascent to Base Camp. I therefore anticipate there will some competition for the Namche showers tonight. I will leave my shower until others have taken theirs.

I must also check set aside sufficient funds to pay for my airport departure taxes and tips for the sirdar and porters. I need about 4200NR, leaving me with 700NR and £60 to get me home.

Nice image of the Namche 'bowl'

I enjoy my shower as hot water sluices away the day's filth. I feel like a new man dressed in clean clothes. Tonight the permanent staff are supposed to be organising a 'farewell party' in 'Club Namche'... as there was for Trek C.

No doubt the dynamics will be different with Trek D. I'm not interested in drinking alcohol tonight, nor do I wish to participate in any dance routines. Tomorrow is going to be a hard day walking to Lukla, so the last thing I want is a late night and a hangover, especially since I am only just rid of headaches and nausea.

The evening is as expected. An entertainment evening of drink and Ceroc dancing. It is nice that this has been arranged as a farewell 'party' by the permanent XE staff at Namche, but I believe our group would have been just as content to have a couple of beers and a natter, a few games of pool and then drift off to bed.

Mike and I leave around 2100hrs, although we were encouraged to stay the course. As far as I'm concerned, the proper celebration for Trek D will be the meal in Kathmandu.

We will be up early tomorrow. 0500hrs to watch the sun up on Everest, testing at 0600hrs, with breakfast at 0630hrs and away by 0700hrs.

Night night.

Namche to Tengboche and beyond [Day 17]

Meeting up with Trek D

I wake at 0425hrs having gone to bed at 2000hrs. I am excited at the prospect of trekking back up the trail to meet my team.

I get downstairs too early for breakfast and chat with the sirdar and porters of Trek G. The sirdar is a very experienced climber and has accompanied Alan Hinks on expeditions. One of his porters (Husan Sunawar) exchanges email addresses with me so we can keep in touch once I return to the UK.

My thoughts wander back to home, to my wife and family. It will be strange to get back to normality. I will have things to catch up on... to get back on my computer, read and answer my emails, sort out my finances and continue renovation work on our cottage. I will also need to sort out my Xtreme Everest photos, write up my blog and plan my next trip (the Crib Goch ridge walk on Snowdon with my son). So many good positive things to look forward to, but for now I need to pack my rucksack and get on the trail after breakfast.

I have my normal diet of porridge, omelette on toast and lemon tea and finish before Trek G come down for breakfast. I return to my room to pack my rucksack with the essentials. I pack my sleeping bag, wash kit, waterproofs, medical kit and extra layers... fill my water bottle, use the loo and then leave a note pinned to my holdall of my route, plans and timings. I lock the room, pocket the key and walk out of the lodge.

I wander past the crashed helicopter, up the steps and out through the entrance arch to the lodge grounds. There are a number of locals around as I head through the narrow alleyways leading to the open hillside and the trail to Tengboche.

I set out at a good pace and it is great being on my own again. I find that when trekking alone there is a sense of freedom. Many of the porters carrying loads are more inclined to stop and chat. The locals carry huge burdens up the mountain to supply the lodges with goods and materials.

Ideal resting place

Lovely walk through the forest

This is the main highway to get goods up the trekking trail in support of the climbing industry. Helicopters can be used, but this form of transportation is so much more expensive. I suspect only the very wealthy expeditionary forces can use this as a norm. It's not just adults that act as porters - there are children, perhaps as young as twelve, carrying massive loads too. Some of the sights defy explanation, but I'll try.

One particular guy is carrying four sheets of thick ply roped together. Each sheet must be 6' x 3' x 0.5" and the weight immense. I would have difficulty lifting just one sheet... and yet here he is with this load suspended by a band around his forehead. His tendons and muscles are straining with the weight as he walks... in flip flops... heading for Tengboche and beyond. The weight must have been well in excess of 60kg!

With my lightweight pack I continue to romp along, the route and places now very familiar. I take more photos of Everest and particularly of Ama Dablam, and soon arrive at the base of the climb up to Tengboche. I make sure I have a rest at the bottom, taking the opportunity to use the loo, get fluids inside me and refuel with a Mars Bar.

The temperature has risen and it is still only mid-morning. The trail up to Tengboche snakes its way, ever upwards. The dust is powder dry, coating my boots and filling my nostrils. I keep resting where I can in the shade to take on more liquid. I am soaked in sweat.

The porters also take regular rests. There seem to be convenient points where there are ledges in the stone walls, so they can lean their loads without having to remove them. I am in awe of the carrying ability and stamina. It is all I can do to keep going uphill, placing one leg after another... and all I am carrying is a measly rucksack.

There is another porter who has a towering basket. It is full of crates of San Miguel beer, with boxes of confectionery beneath. He is toiling upward ever so slowly, his brow furrowed with the weight and strain of carrying. Someone else has a carcass of some meat or other on his back, open to the elements, with flies buzzing around in the heat.

With great relief I finally top out at Tengboche - it is just 1045hrs having set out from Namche at 0745hrs.

Nice to stop and chat

I am still feeling strong and the weather is excellent, so decide to push on through Deboche to head up to Pangboche. I know permission for this has not been granted for this extension. However, I consider the risk low. In any case, Trek D will be descending down the trail, so we will bump into each other sooner or later.

This section of the trail is delightful... much of it through colourful rhododendron forests, high above the Dudh Kosi.

Rhododendron trail

Just after Deboche, I meet one of the Trek D porters. He recognises me instantly and comes over to give me a hug. He seems genuinely pleased to see me, and me him. This makes me feel a million dollars. I discover the team are about an hour away. This gives me plenty of time to head further up the trail, as they are descending from Dingboche.

I arrive at the distinctive bridge below Pangboche. This is not a hawser suspension bridge like most, but is constructed out of scaffolding tube. I arrive at the archway which welcomes the trekker to Upper and Lower Pangboche. Unsure as to which route Trek D would have taken, I decide to wait on an outcrop of rock, high above the valley.

Shortly, a small group of porters ascending the trail stop for a rest. I offer them some of my biscuits and soon the whole packet has been devoured. The porters are chatting between themselves and seem to be looking at my rucksack. I discover they are laughing at the solar panel and my GPS fastened to the side. I'm sure this causes them great amusement, as it is really not that difficult to follow the trail. Certainly not for those who use this route regularly to transport goods ever higher with nothing more than flip flops, trousers, shirt and jacket.

It's not long before the porter group continue leaving me on my own again. I have a great view up towards Ama Dablam, my favourite mountain. Ama Dablam means 'mother’s necklace' because the long ridges on each side of the mountain are like the arms of a mother (ama) protecting her child. The hanging glacier is thought of as the dablam (a traditional double-pendant containing pictures of the gods) worn by Sherpa women.

Waiting for Trek D to arrive

Ama Dablam

The sun is beating down and I have removed my rucksack to settle down to wait for Trek D to arrive. Lying on my back, enjoying the warmth, I hear bells clanking in the distance. These warn anyone on the trail to get out of the way. The yaks soon come into view, heavily loaded with blue Jagged Globe expedition bags.

I get up and go to speak with our yak herder who grins in recognition. She tells me the group are not far away. It's not long before I recognise Deborah's (Trek Leader) yellow rucksack bobbing down the hill.

The group seemed surprised to see me, but with many hugs and handshakes, I am back in the womb of my team again. Two of the group (Dennis and Nadia) have taken an extension to their trekking holiday, so are no longer with us.

Mike comes over to greet me. It is great to have his company again and I am eager to hear of their experience at Base Camp. We walk back to Tengboche chatting and catching up with the news. I also have to fill them in about what has happened to me since being left at Pheriche.

Many have had an uncomfortable time at EBC, especially with the effects of altitude and cold. A number have bad coughs. It is clear they would not have wished to have missed it. On the other hand they wouldn't want to repeat the experience. I don't think they are saying this just for my benefit. I remember looking at Trek C after they had arrived at Dingboche and thinking how drained they looked. Trek D now have that similar gaunt look.

I am talking to Llakpa (our Sirdar) climbing the hill out of Deboche, when we are surprised by three horses thundering downhill around a corner of the trail. One poor animal has his leg caught up in a saddle that has slipped. We only just manage to leap out of the way as they crash into the undergrowth near a steep precipice. Fortunately, they manage to regain the trail, but are heading straight for the rest of our group.

We shout out warnings before a breathless monk comes into view. He continues running after his wayward mounts.

Arriving back at Tengboche for the fourth time (for me), it is incredible how a place becomes very familiar. Mike decides to billet with me again. After dumping our bags in our allocated room, I ask him if he would like to walk up the ridge to the prayer flags.

I mention I had found it quite spiritual. In the event I had left my scarf tied to a bush and said a prayer for the health and happiness of my family. Mike offers to say some words in prayer for me too, but I kindly decline and he takes a photo of me instead. 

Prayer flag ridge at Tengboche

Namche [Day 16]

Freedom

I have another great sleep - from about 2045hrs right through to 0530hrs. It is nice to have a good wash in the morning, but then I struggle as to what to put on. The majority of my stuff is filthy and smelly. A breakfast of porridge, omelette on toast, a hot chocolate and hot lemon. It is great to have my appetite back.

I intend to walk into Namche today, have a good sort out of my holdall and perhaps have a shave and shower. I will then make sure I have everything packed and ready for my trek up to Tengboche.

Down in Namche, I visit a number of shops. I buy a scarf to keep the sun off my neck and a couple of mini karabiners. One will be useful for a safety loop on my camera bag; the other to fasten my water bottle to my rucksack.

Whilst wandering around the village, I see a little child peeking out of a doorway at me. There was no-one to ask if I could snap the picture (as I would normally do), so I just clicked the shutter. I find photographs a useful aid to memory. It is quite cool in the early morning, but the temperature soon rises. It is now 1015hrs.

I am really looking forward to heading back up to Tengboche tomorrow to meet my colleagues from Trek D. As I will have to leave my holdall behind, I must remember to take my room key with me to keep it secure. I will leave a note of my route and intentions too. I don't want Trek G's porters mistakenly removing my kit.

Inquisitive child

Entrance to Namche

Wash time

When I return to the lodge I ask for a bowl of hot water to shave off my beard. It takes two shaves to clear all the growth. As I am usually clean shaven in my day-to-day life, I feel so much better now.

Sitting here in my room writing my diary, flies are buzzing in through the window, attracted by the soiled toilet tissue in the bin beside the loo. I deny them access by shutting the door of the en-suite. I then decide it will be nicer to sit in the sunshine outside to read my book. However, the cold wind whipping around the front of the lodge soon has me scurrying inside again.

I decide to walk some way up the trail to the Norgay Tenzing Chorten. This is located in a fantastic spot with views up towards the Everest range. Magnificent. Studying the inscription on the commemorative plate, some moron has decided to deface it. What motivates a person to do this?

Route to Tenzing Norgay Chorten

Great view of the Everest range

I get the opportunity to speak with a few people from Trek G today. I tell them about my walk to Thamo and how delightful it was. Some choose to go out on an acclimatisation walk on this route. On their return they seek me out to thank me as they had really enjoyed the trip.

The pool table is empty, so I have a knock about with the balls to kill some time. Soon bored, I wander back into Namche again to take more photos of village life. I buy another litre of water and some chocolate.

On the walk back up to the lodge, I see an internet café and pop in to send a final email to my wife before our flight back to Kathmandu. I discover this internet has a fast satellite link, yet was cheaper than the connection at the lodge. I wish I had known about this before!

Back at the lodge, I go to the lounge and buy a hot chocolate, settling down to update my diary. Two blokes from Trek G are there with two mini radio-controlled helicopters. I am told their intention is to fly them at each acclimatisation stop to see what the effects of altitude are on lift. The machines whirr into life and buzz around the ceiling awhile before crashing into each other and spiralling to the floor.

The young Nepali woman serving afternoon drinks watches the incident and laughs, as do I. She wanders over to me, offering a handful of cashew nuts and sits down for a chat. Such a friendly response and a lovely gesture.

I remain in the lounge to have the evening meal, after which I feel tired. I retire to my room at 2000hrs to rest before tomorrow's exertions.

Tengboche to Namche [Day 14]

'Club Namche'

The two guys I share a room with tonight, one has the bed on the left hand side of me, the other the right hand bed. I am already in my bag when they decide to retire for the evening. Almost immediately they manage to fall asleep. One goes silent before gasping and sucking in a lungful of air, whilst the other is rasping steadily.  Stereo snoring... yep, stereo.  I swear I don't sleep a wink. I will not name them... but if they read this blog, they'll know who they were.

I am now sat in the lodge, bleary eyed, writing my diary. It is cold - the dung burner from last night now asleep - out of fuel. Looking around the room, it is covered with posters of expeditions. Everest (South Koreans) 2003; Pumori (Italians); Llotse (South Koreans) 2007; Ama Dablam 2002; K2 (South Koreans) 2006. There is also a poster about Jamling Tensing Norgay's book "Touching My Father's Soul" - which looks like it might be a good read. There are also old photographs of Tengboche Monastry and various Buddhist posters. In the background a radio blares out Nepali political propaganda... and a mix of nationalities come and go for breakfast... Brits, French, Koreans, Nepalis.

This morning the smell of the drains is overpowering, drifting into the lodge. This isn't very conducive to eating breakfast. The term 'drains' is too elaborate for what exists here, as sewage discharges into a pit below the porcelain squat and left to decay... hence the strong smell.

My camera seems to be eating batteries lately... due to the cold temperatures. I must set up my solar panel and recharge them all.

We set off a little later than scheduled - 0815hrs. A long descent down to the Dudh Kosi... and a nice steady climb to Sangsun. The sun shines steadily and the rhododendrons are out in pink force. A very large bird circles above the valley and I grab my camera to take some shots of it. I don't think it is a Golden Eagle, most likely a Lammergeier.

Rhododendrons clinging to the hillside

Out in bloom

Prayer wheel

Well maintained trekking trail

Opportunity to buy souvenirs

Himalayan birch

Lammergeier

Namche

Arriving at Namche, there is a comforting familiarity about the place.  A return to good accommodation, good food... proper sit down toilets and hot showers. Civilisation.

I check in with the duty doctor at the Namche Laboratory (Jo) at 1500hrs and hand her my medical data (this had been copied to a USB drive by the Kiwi doctor at Pheriche). After a further examination and discussion of my current situation, I am 'signed off' as being medically fit again.

I seize the moment and ask for permission to go trekking on my own. This will help offset my disappointment at not getting to Base Camp and might allow me to rejoin my Trek D colleagues as they descend towards Namche. Jo said she would speak with Monty... the Lab boss.

I decide to see if I can get on the internet, however I find this is occupied by the Americans from the Imax team filming our expedition. I decide to try again later rather than waiting.

It is now extremely busy at the Sherwi Khangba Hotel with multiple trekking groups in residence. My current group (Trek C) have just arrived, Trek F are here having been delayed by bad weather flying out from Kathmandu to Lukla, and now Trek G are arriving too.

Trek F happens to be John Caudwell's team (a major sponsor of the whole expedition), hence why the Imax film crew are accompanying him. The accommodation is full to overflowing.

Contingency Plan

I have not been asked to continue with Trek C, so it seems I will have to wait until my original group (trek D) arrive in Namche. I decide to go and check their trekking schedule and discover they are not due in Namche until the 29th April, a day later than I expected. It is only the 25th April today, so I will need to decide what I'm going to do in the interim. Studying my maps, I put a rough plan together.

On the 26th, I will ask permission to trek up the adjacent valley to visit the Thamo Nunnery. We had completed a short section of this route during the Trek D acclimatisation walk, so at least part of the route would be familiar to me. This will involve minimal risk.

I'll use the 27th for personal admin... to organise having a shower and shave, and to sort my kit out.

I will then seek permission to trek back up the Khumbu trail on the 28th, to see how far I can get before surprising my Trek D colleagues as they descend from Dingboche. Excited, I went to layout my plans to the permanent staff.

Whilst I was waiting for a decision to be taken, I bump into Kit Spencer of Summit Trekking (who organises the Nepali side of operations for Jagged Globe). The Summit Hotel (where he is Managing Director), is a fantastic bit of real estate in Kathmandu and a lovely retreat from the hustle and bustle of the city.

Kit is an ex-Gurkha Officer and I have a great deal of respect for what he has built over here and for what he contributes to Nepali society. He is in Namche today overseeing all operations to make sure everything runs smoothly for the Imax team and Caudwell group.

As we sit in the lounge we have a chat and Kit patiently listens to my story of headaches and sickness. He is very understanding, but quite firm in his opinion that the right decision was taken in not allowing me to progress from Pheriche. I could have become a real problem to the group if my health had deteriorated further. His recommendation was - it is best to make the most of my Himalayan experience in other ways. It's not just about getting to Base Camp!

Then the news I'd been waiting for - permission has been granted for me to go solo trekking, as long as I leave details of my route and timings... and check back in afterwards. This clears the issue of my trek to Thamo, but more important to me was the longer trek back up the Khumbu to meet up with my own trekking group.

On this particular matter, I am advised to accompany Trek G to Tengboche and wait there for my group to arrive, in case of any relapse with my headaches. This makes sense I suppose, but I was really looking forward to trekking back up on my own. I am confident that I know the route having covered it twice, once up and then down again. Also I am now feeling extremely fit and well. I promise to myself, I will make the decision what to do after seeing how I perform on my day trek to Thamo.

That evening, after I finally manage to get on the internet and email my wife with the up-to-date position. I am sitting with the members of Trek C, their Sirdar and porters in a private annex of the Namche Lodge. There is a warm hubbub of conversation and the guitar appears again.

A rendition of Trek C's song is given in preparation for the Farewell Party at 'Club Namche' - and I sing along to the chorus: "Hey, hey, feeling blue; Yaks on the mountain two by two; Who'd believe what we've been through; Let's go back to Kathmandu". Of course, having a musical director amongst us (Harry) helps no end.

At 'Club Namche', the evening is a success. Trek C perform their song, as did the Sirdar and his porters. The Club Namche permanent staff do their best to entertain with some type of dance instruction. I just stand at the bar with a beer chatting and philosophising about life in general.

Whilst Trek C are gathered together, I decide to thank them for making me so very welcome. This was politely received and everyone clapped - it will be nice to see them off tomorrow as they head for home - but I will be sad to see them go. I will have to get up early tomorrow (0530hrs) to see Trek C depart for Lukla, so I decide to retire early to the 'dormitory' (six lads sharing together).

A good evening, with good company and a fitting farewell to Trek C - thanks folks for making me so welcome.

Dingboche to Tengboche [Day 13]

Descent to familiar places

I spend the waking hours beating myself up over whether I could have continued with Trek D to Base Camp. However, the severe headaches/migraine were so debilitating it would have been impossible. Yet it is remarkable how, even after a short while, one tends to forget how ill you feel at the time.

The feeling of failure is all consuming - I know I must change my negative thinking. I must accept the opportunity to go to Everest Base Camp on this occasion has now been and gone. It is in the past. I must get over my disappointment and get on with it. 

Looking to the positive, I am walking in the Himalayas and seeing these great mountains with my own eyes. I am getting to know the marvellous Nepali people, always happy despite living in hardship a lot of the time. I have achieved a 'summit' of 4,400 metres which is more than many do in a lifetime. I am therefore going to make the most of the remaining time I have here in Nepal and plan to re-join Trek D if it is at all possible.

Leaving Dingboche

After breakfast, I accompany Trek C as we walk out of Dingboche. Cold at first, it soon warms up. The trail is still very dusty despite the snow and cloud of the previous day. Many of the ascending trekkers have scarves over their faces to keep this at bay.

Route out of Dingboche

There is a lovely line of mani stones on the ridge as we head down towards Pangboche. I have stayed on the periphery of the group, not wishing to upset the dynamics of the team. I have to say this is quite nice, wandering along on my own, just occasionally interacting with members of the team.

Mani stones - always pass on the left

Arriving at the junction for Upper and Lower Pangboche, Machma (Sirdar for Trek C), takes us up the hill to Upper Pangboche.

Upper Pangboche

We descend into the village and stop at the Gompa Lodge & Restaurant. This is located in a yard and there is a smell of wood smoke pervading the area. White stone walls surround us and there is the sound of crows in the background. The sun is beating down and I feel very content and at peace with life. For once on this expedition, I do not have a headache, despite the exercise.

Gompa Lodge

We all remove our backpacks and stack the trekking poles along the wall. Many of Trek C go to see the service at the Gompa - I stay behind to take photos. Suddenly, the clanking of bells alerts me to a procession of yaks. Before I could get out of the way I am surrounded by beasts coming every which way. A young Nepali girl beckons me to safety in her yard and the yaks clank past, eying me with baleful eyes.

A proud and dominant Yak

Yaks take priority on the trail

After lunch, the path out of Upper Pangboche is delightful. We walk through carefully tended crop terraces, all contained by neat stone walls, no mean achievement at this height. The attractive painted Chortens along the trail commemorating Buddhist remains or artefacts.

Commemorative Chortens

We have a colourful walk through the flowering rhododendrons towards the Deboche lodge we stayed at on the way up. This is one of my most favourite parts of the trek as it contours the mountainside and follows the Dudh Kosi river. However, it is a hard final slog up the hill to Tengboche where we were to stay for the night.

I am 'billeted' with two older guys in a very cramped three bed room, with just leg room in between.  Reflecting on my day today, I feel superbly fit with no hint of a headache at all. Was my burden due to altitude... who knows? Even the medics don't seem to be that sure - all I know is that I was in a lot of pain much of the way up the Khumbu to Pheriche, especially in the afternoons.

As we have some time to kill before tea, I decide to disappear off on my own and explore Tengboche. I find a pathway up to the prayer flag ridgeline, where the wind whistles away the prayers, delivering them to the higher reaches of the Everest mountain range. Pure solitude.

Prayer flag ridge - Tengboche

Seed offerings and prayer flags

I have been in the company of others for most of the trek and yet here was real peace and quiet. No sound of man... at all. Just the shriek of the wind cresting the ridge with the flapping prayer flags.

Feeling emotional, about failure to get to EBC, my health, missing my family, I'm not ashamed to say I have a little cry. Why is it shedding tears always seems to help the inner psych, as I certainly feel much better afterwards?

Feeling quite spiritual and at peace

I decide to place an expensive call to my wife to reassure her about my state of health - also to tell her that I am missing her loads. Furthermore, I don't want her accessing the web to find a report that Trek D had arrived at EBC and then find I'm not on the photo. This would worry her no end.

She is upset I hadn't been able to continue to EBC... but I reassure her that I am functioning well now and will give more detail in an email to our son tomorrow when I reach Namche.

I am now sitting in the teashop with two members of Trek C, Chris and Jacquetta, enjoying a mug of hot chocolate. Both are delightful company. Jacquetta Megarry is an author who writes/publishes trekking and walking books. I manage to remember her website, a wonderful resource for anyone interested in walking and trekking: www.rucsacs.com.

I have had a really good day which makes up for some of the disappointment with the trek. I feel it can only get better here on in... and yet I am looking forward to getting home too.

To kill more time I wander into the Tibetan Eco Centre and watch a film on Buddhism. This religion seems to have a lovely approach to life... being peaceful, gentle, happy and helpful to others... all things we in the western world can improve at.

I return to the lodge where all the Sirdars and porters are singing around a roasting yak dung burner - a wonderful atmosphere. I sit with the Trek C members whilst they give a recital of their 'trekking song'. John (the trek leader) has a guitar and is playing along. In response, the sherpas and porters sing a terrific melodic ditty that has everyone clapping to the rhythm.

The lodge is filled with us Brits down one side, South Koreans down another, French at one end with the Nepali sherpas/porters at the other. To our surprise, Harry (who is in the music business and worked with George Martin), announces that there is a Choonhae Juliana Lee in the room (a famous Opera singer from S Korea).

Juliana is on her way to EBC to sing for the South Korean Summit Team, but will give us a short impromptu performance. Harry said this will be the highest altitude that Juliana had ever sung before... and has to be careful with her voice. Juliana promptly stands up, introduces the song 'Arida - a National Folk Tune', and burst into voice. She gives a stunning performance and brings the house down. What a memorable evening.

As I depart for bed with my head torch on, in the periphery of the light I notice the old Tibetan mastiff that I'd seen padding around earlier. Poor lad and obviously in discomfort, he scratches away at his numerous sores and boils, as he lies down to sleep. I feel quite fortunate - at least I'll be comfortable in my sleeping bag... poor thing.

Tibetan mastiff

Pheriche to Dingboche [Day 12]

Feeling all alone

I have a good sleep for my last night at the 'White Yak'. A quick wash using wet wipes, I freshen up, clean my teeth and use the loo - all signs that I am getting back to normal. Best of all is that I am headache-free. I also pass almost a litre of urine during the night - however it was dark yellow, almost brown, indicating I have still not taken enough liquid on-board.

The view from my window

At breakfast, everyone in Trek E are really friendly and supportive. This team seem to have a much more relaxed attitude to rising in the morning for the tests... tending to drift downstairs in one's and two's. I am unsure whether I am still required to carry out my own tests because my Trek group have departed. I also wonder if all the medication I've been taking will adversely affect the results. Nobody seems to know, so I participate in any case.

Results for today are: Resting - O2 80; HR 67; BR 9.  BP 145/81; 144/82; 140/80. Unfortunately, nobody is available to test my 'At exercise' rates.

Departure

The Trek E leader checks with me to determine a convenient time to go to Dingboche (4,410 metres). He still needs to arrange a porter to accompany us. I say I am happy to fit in with his plans - he mentions a 0900hrs departure - so I agree and thank him.

I go back to my room and pack my holdall. I also get my rucksack sorted out for the climb over the ridge. I leave my holdall outside for the porter and sign for my extra days lodging and meals.

My kit - farewell to Pheriche

The Trek E leader and his porter meet me outside at 0900hrs ready to accompany me to Dingboche. The route is a rough track that winds up the steep hillside outside the White Yak. I am glad to be feeling much better as both set a blistering pace.

I must have gained some of my strength back overnight as I am not breathing too hard, despite the extra altitude gain and effort. We summit the ridge quickly and start to descend to Dingboche past a large Chorten with fluttering prayer flags. I can see the village spreading out below.



Dingboche - from the top of the village

As we descend, the Trek E leader suddenly says he doesn't know which lodge he was supposed to escort me to - he had forgotten to ask. In the event, we decide to head for the top of the village and work our way down making enquiries. Sods law it is the very last lodge at the lowest point in the village!

Peaceful Lodge

The Trek E leader stays for some refreshment before heading back. I give his porter 100NR and settle their bill. The Trek E leader then mentions that he has paid his porter 500NR to transport my holdall from Pheriche, but advised me he would take it out of his contingency fund. I am at a bit of a loss as to what the correct protocol was in this situation. After a final chat, they leave me alone with the Nepalese family at the Peaceful Lodge and Restaurant - it is only 1015hrs.

I wish I can be certain this is definitely my rendezvous point for Trek C. I now have the rest of the day to kill before the other group of trekkers arrive. I therefore decide to put my holdall in an unoccupied room and have a wander up the valley.

I put on my rucksack and start up the central village path through Dingboche. A little stream gurgles its way downhill amongst the stones as I make my way between stone walls and mani stones. I keep greeting people 'Namaste' as I pass them and before I know it, I am heading out of the village at the top of the valley.

Dingboche is an altogether nicer place than Pheriche. The sun appears to stay longer in this valley and the wind seems much less severe. I then decide to gain height up to a ridgeline to get a better view back to the village.

The trail climbs steadily upwards and despite taking it easy, I begin to feel light-headed. There is just a vague glimmer of a headache. As a precaution, I turn around to descend back to the lodge, getting back at 1150hrs.

Barren terrain at Dingboche

Rather bored, I wander over to the sun lounge to continue reading my book (Memoirs of a Mountaineer by F Spencer Chapman). There is an old Nepalese man in the lounge chanting mantras, spinning a hand held prayer wheel. A little snot-nosed girl comes over to me and brings her playing cards and slides for her hair. She offers these to me, wanting me to play. We try to build the cards as high as we can until they all fall down... and she smiles with a big grin.

Looking through the window, we notice snow beginning to fall. All the family members rush out to cover their vegetable patch... the little girl included. A tarpaulin is stretched out and heavy stones laid as anchors to hold it down in the rising wind. The soil starts to steam as the snow lands. The earth has retained its heat from the sun's rays in the thin atmosphere. No wonder these people are burnt brown... which explains how we are also getting tanned and need the attention of a Factor 50 cream.

Protection for the crops

The little girl comes back to play cards with me and noticing a dirty mark on one, promptly spits on it and wipes it with her sleeve. Porters walk past the entrance to this lodge carrying their heavy loads ever higher up the mountain. Ghostly figures in the driving snow.

I decide to go back to my room where I take a preventative Sinex tablet and vow I will never leave my wife at home, no matter what sort of adventure beckons.

My room at the Peaceful Lodge

After a short while I decide it is not very healthy, emotionally, sitting on my own in my room, so I lock up and go to the lodge dining room. To my surprise I come across someone I know. Helen, a fellow volunteer with Trek C had been at Pheriche suffering from D & V - I wasn't aware she hadn't been able to continue to EBC.

She had been escorted to Dingboche the other day when I was really poorly, ready to accompany Trek C to Namche as well. It was so nice to have a friendly face, confirming this was the correct lodge.

The owner of the lodge lit the Yak dung burner in the dining room and everybody huddles round trying to get some of its early warmth. Two other trekkers have joined Helen and I. An Australian woman who is trekking on her own and a German climber who has been here many times, but is suffering from early AMS. He has had to descend to Dingboche for further acclimatisation.

The Australian lady is really chatty. A lovely woman who works with socially-deprived youngsters back home. Approaching the yak burner for more heat, she gets a little close and the front of her duvet jacket melts into a hole. Feather down starts to float everywhere. 'Shit, shit, shit' she shouts, for the down jacket is rented. She spent the rest of the afternoon trying to darn the man-made fabric and mend the hole.

My thoughts extend to Trek C having to navigate their way back down from EBC during the snowfall. An early start will have been necessary to have attempted Kala Pattar (5,199 metres), before descending via Gorak Shep. It is now 1615hrs and there are no signs of them. The cloud base has also dropped, mist cloaking everything... and the temperature is plummeting.

Trek C yaks start to arrive... unloading is an unceremonious affair. Bags thrown left, right and centre. The yaks are carrying their own food in the form of hay bales. It won't be long before the trekkers arrive - it is now nearly 1700hrs. I hope I get the same friendly welcome as that from Trek E.



Trek C transportation

Snow is falling heavily now - I'm so glad to be here in the warm, toasting my feet and hands on the yak burner and drinking lemon tea. Suddenly, through the gloom, people begin to arrive. I go out to greet them as they have experienced a very long, difficult day. It is 1800hrs and they had been trekking from before 0600hrs.

John Dick (Trek C Leader) comes straight over to introduce himself. He has met Deborah (Trek D Leader), so had been expecting me. He is a lovely chap - a true gentleman in every sense. The evening was spent chatting and Trek C make me very welcome - a lovely group of people, every single one.

Tired, I excuse myself for bed, visiting the basic loo on the way. To my horror I discover I have diarrhoea. I take the anti-bacterial drug, clothrimazole and an Imodium in the hope that this works overnight before having to trek down to Tengboche tomorrow at 0830hrs.

Namche to Deboche [Day 7]

No respite

I wake at 0515hrs and find that I still have a slight headache. I slept well though. I only drank 0.50 litre of water overnight, so must drink more than this to avoid the onset of dehydration and possible altitude mountain sickness. I take a further tablet of Sinex and two inhalations of Decomit for each nostril before I even get out of my bag.

Testing is due at 0600hrs this morning and we made sure our kit is downstairs ready for loading on the yaks. Breakfast is at 0700hrs and we need to be on the trail by 0800hrs. My results for today are: Resting - O2 88; HR 58; BR 9.  BP 140/86; 141/86; 131/87.  After exercise - O2 83; HR 140; BR 16.

It is a lovely walk from Namche to Fungithenga (Phunki Tenga 3,250 metres)... but as expected now, a severe headache develops. We have a short break to photograph the Tenzing Norgay Memorial along the way, providing another opportunity to take on valuable fluids.



Everest is the peak slightly left of centre, beneath the clouds

Tenzing Norgay Memorial

Some perspective on the trekking route

Fed up of headaches

Sagarmatha National Park signpost



Refreshment break at Kyangjuma (3,550 metres)

I'm currently sat in the river valley at Fungithenga (Phunki Tenga) waiting for lunch, not looking forward to the long slog up to Tengboche with a throbbing head. I slam down another 1,000mg Paracetamol Extra. The lunch arrives and was nice and we have a good rest before the climb uphill.



Loving the signs

Lunch break

Rhododendrons marking the way to Tengboche

Llakpa leads the way up the hill, taking it very steady making sure we don't over-exert ourselves. We have a good ascent through the rhododendrons and arrive at the plateau, where we wander out into the open and see the Tengboche Monastery (3,860 metres) in all its splendour. A magnificent sight.

Tengboche Monastery

Prayer flags

We wander down to the café where I purchase a hot chocolate doughnut and some lemon tea. Later we attend a Buddhist service at the Monastery - boots off and camera flash disabled - I listen to the chanting monks at prayer - quite spiritual. I manage to sneak a couple of discreet shots of the super colours inside the prayer hall.

Café Tengboche

We then descend to Deboche (3,710 metres), our lodge for the night - a short walk down a steep hill through a delightful rhododendron forest, crossing a stream and we arrive. What a super location.

Deboche

My headache is still dominating my life, I take another 1,000mg of Paracetamol Extra and two inhalations of Decomit. Nothing seems to be able to solve my headache problem and it is causing me real concern, particularly for higher on the mountain.