Namche [Day 16]

Freedom

I have another great sleep - from about 2045hrs right through to 0530hrs. It is nice to have a good wash in the morning, but then I struggle as to what to put on. The majority of my stuff is filthy and smelly. A breakfast of porridge, omelette on toast, a hot chocolate and hot lemon. It is great to have my appetite back.

I intend to walk into Namche today, have a good sort out of my holdall and perhaps have a shave and shower. I will then make sure I have everything packed and ready for my trek up to Tengboche.

Down in Namche, I visit a number of shops. I buy a scarf to keep the sun off my neck and a couple of mini karabiners. One will be useful for a safety loop on my camera bag; the other to fasten my water bottle to my rucksack.

Whilst wandering around the village, I see a little child peeking out of a doorway at me. There was no-one to ask if I could snap the picture (as I would normally do), so I just clicked the shutter. I find photographs a useful aid to memory. It is quite cool in the early morning, but the temperature soon rises. It is now 1015hrs.

I am really looking forward to heading back up to Tengboche tomorrow to meet my colleagues from Trek D. As I will have to leave my holdall behind, I must remember to take my room key with me to keep it secure. I will leave a note of my route and intentions too. I don't want Trek G's porters mistakenly removing my kit.

Inquisitive child

Entrance to Namche

Wash time

When I return to the lodge I ask for a bowl of hot water to shave off my beard. It takes two shaves to clear all the growth. As I am usually clean shaven in my day-to-day life, I feel so much better now.

Sitting here in my room writing my diary, flies are buzzing in through the window, attracted by the soiled toilet tissue in the bin beside the loo. I deny them access by shutting the door of the en-suite. I then decide it will be nicer to sit in the sunshine outside to read my book. However, the cold wind whipping around the front of the lodge soon has me scurrying inside again.

I decide to walk some way up the trail to the Norgay Tenzing Chorten. This is located in a fantastic spot with views up towards the Everest range. Magnificent. Studying the inscription on the commemorative plate, some moron has decided to deface it. What motivates a person to do this?

Route to Tenzing Norgay Chorten

Great view of the Everest range

I get the opportunity to speak with a few people from Trek G today. I tell them about my walk to Thamo and how delightful it was. Some choose to go out on an acclimatisation walk on this route. On their return they seek me out to thank me as they had really enjoyed the trip.

The pool table is empty, so I have a knock about with the balls to kill some time. Soon bored, I wander back into Namche again to take more photos of village life. I buy another litre of water and some chocolate.

On the walk back up to the lodge, I see an internet café and pop in to send a final email to my wife before our flight back to Kathmandu. I discover this internet has a fast satellite link, yet was cheaper than the connection at the lodge. I wish I had known about this before!

Back at the lodge, I go to the lounge and buy a hot chocolate, settling down to update my diary. Two blokes from Trek G are there with two mini radio-controlled helicopters. I am told their intention is to fly them at each acclimatisation stop to see what the effects of altitude are on lift. The machines whirr into life and buzz around the ceiling awhile before crashing into each other and spiralling to the floor.

The young Nepali woman serving afternoon drinks watches the incident and laughs, as do I. She wanders over to me, offering a handful of cashew nuts and sits down for a chat. Such a friendly response and a lovely gesture.

I remain in the lounge to have the evening meal, after which I feel tired. I retire to my room at 2000hrs to rest before tomorrow's exertions.