Kathmandu to Bahrain [Day 21]

No more tests

Waking early, we have the final physical tests before handing in our research diaries.

This morning my results were:
Resting - O2 95; HR 70; BR 9.  BP 146/88; 128/84; 127/83.  After exercise - O2 94; HR 123; BR 13.

I return the completed diary to the XE staff and question them over how my data would be utilised, particularly as my trek had differed somewhat from those of my colleagues on Trek D. I was told in no uncertain terms that my data would be amalgamated with all the other statistics after which it would all be analysed.

A contribution to medical research was a major driver for me when deciding to come on this expedition, especially that relating to intensive care, so I feel quite comforted in the knowledge that my data won't be discarded as 'invalid'.

Leaving the Summit Hotel for the last time, the heavens open and the rain pours down. Perhaps Kathmandu is shedding tears for our departure?

We get on the minibus, but as it navigates the narrow streets outside the hotel, we manage to get stuck in a 'traffic jam'. The road is barely wide enough for two vehicles to pass and the stubborn nature of Nepali drivers mean that often an impasse is reached, neither party moving forwards or backwards.

Last day... and rain

We are there for about 25 minutes, honking horns and moving backwards and forwards a couple of feet to let traffic through, with no real intent at reaching a resolution. Everybody is tense, not wishing to miss our flight. I feel like jumping out to direct the traffic, as the solution seems so obvious.

The humidity levels are rising in the bus and so are tempers... but the experienced Nepal travellers have seen it all before and are quite chilled about it. Finally, the main instigator, a tanker driver, sees the obvious solution and pulls out of the way down a side road, freeing up the situation.

We arrive at Kathmandu Airport and there is the usual scrummage to check holdalls in for weighing. Deborah decides to do this as a group, so as to offset any potential baggage excess - but chaos reigns after someone loses their boarding ticket. It is far easier to check in your own luggage, so there is individual responsibility. If there is excess baggage to pay, then that individual settles up.

My rucksack is given a cursory examination at security and I am released through for boarding. The flight is delayed slightly due to a missing passenger (perhaps the one with the missing boarding ticket), but within half an hour we are on our way, turbulence included.

The plane for this part of the flight is a Boeing 767-300 Gulf Traveller seating 257 in Economy Class. The flight is nothing spectacular and I sleep most of the way, apart from being wakened for lunch. A spicy rice and chicken dish, with a lychee and a carrot/cucumber mix. I don't find this appetising at all, leaving most of it on the plate. Hopefully the next flight meal will be better.

We arrive at Bahrain pretty much on time, but now have a six hour wait for our next flight at 0130hrs tomorrow morning. After the experience of sitting around in departures for an extensive period on our way out, we decide to pay the extra and go into the Executive Lounge.

For 27US$ this is good value. Reclining leather chairs, free food and drink, newspapers to read etc. We take full advantage of the facilities and the time passes quickly. I try to send a text message to the family, but my Sony Ericsson K700i battery is dead. I tried to source a charger, to no avail.

Executive Lounge, Bahrain (photo courtesy of Ralf)

Impetuously, I decide to go down to Duty Free to see if I can buy a replacement charger, but none are compatible. I end up buying a new Sony Ericsson Z710i in duty free using my credit card. I settle down to charge it up in the Executive Lounge and attempt to send a message, but it won't send. By the time I find out what the problem was, time had run out and I was due on board.

So much for my 'great idea'.

Lukla to Sinara to Kathmandu [Day 20]

Early flight out

I wake at 0515hrs in readiness for an early departure at Lukla Airstrip... the first flight out. I shake the two lads and then pack away my sleeping bag for the last time. A quick 'wash' with wet wipes and stumble downstairs with the holdalls, so the porters could take these for security clearance.

My thoughts return to home and I am quickly reminded that today is the anniversary of our grandson who sadly passed away a year ago. Goodness knows how my son and daughter-in-law must be feeling. I wish I was at home so that I could be there for them. It is also my dad's 79th birthday... and the poor chap is suffering from dementia in a care home.

Arriving at the departure hall, we find it is full of trekkers trying to get on the first flight out. Fortunately, our Sirdar and Trek Leader were up very early to get this reserved for us.

The time comes for us to say goodbye to the sirdar and his porters. It is really quite sad. We have been with them 24/7 for almost three weeks and they have become good friends. Llakpa seems genuinely upset to leave us. However, he is off to guide another trekking group to Base Camp very shortly, so he will have his hands full again in a couple of days.

We breeze through security and sit airside waiting for the first flight to arrive. It touches down safely and the last few snaps of Lukla Airport are taken.

Lukla Airport

Our flight awaits

Our holdalls are stowed, we are herded on-board, given cotton wool for our ears and a sweet to suck. I manage to get myself in a good position right behind the pilots, so I can take a video of the hairy take-off. The turnaround time for the aircraft is very short. Our own airport authorities could learn a trick or two from Lukla's slick operation.

The engines rev to a crescendo, the brakes release and we shoot off downhill towards the valley at the end of the runway. The pilot uses every inch, right to the warning lines at the bottom, only then rising into the air. How exhilarating. I capture the whole thing on my Olympus camera (no sound).

As we approach Kathmandu, there is clearly something amiss as the two pilots become very animated with their contact over the radio. It transpires there is a security incident at the main airport and we are to be diverted.

I look at the fuel gauges and we have less than 400lbs in each wing tank. A dangling warning tag informs me that there should always be a minimum of 200lbs retained in each tank. That doesn't seem to give us much leeway considering each tank has a maximum capacity of 2400lbs!

We fly for a further 15/20 minutes or so and land at Sinara Airport. I get out of the aircraft into tropical heat, compared with the early morning cool of Lukla.

Sinara Airfield (photo courtesy of Ralf)

Every bit of shade helps

There is the sound of insects and heat shimmers up from the ground. I am totally overdressed for this climate. I am in winter salopettes and a long sleeve wick away shirt. I seek the shade of the wing trying to keep cool, as the pilots wander off to get an update on the security position.



Pre-flight checks

After 15/20 minutes we are on our way again and land at Kathmandu without any drama. We double up, carrying a couple of holdalls each, to the waiting bus. It requires some effort to fight off numerous taxi drivers offering to take our bags for a tip. Once we board the minibus, we are off through the manic traffic of Kathmandu.

I take a rather shaky video of the arrival back at the Summit Hotel (no sound).

As soon as we arrive, the XE medical staff take control and we are whisked away to be weighed. I have lost over 3kg and am now down to 63kg. I was aged 17 the last time I was at this weight - remarkable. To make up for this weight loss we all dive into breakfast, looking forward to the change of diet. I eat fresh fruit, a bread roll and jam, fruit juice, omelette, coffee and tea.

Mike and I are allocated Room 104 this time. It has nice parquet flooring, cane furniture, a ceiling fan, twin beds and a conventional loo and shower in an en-suite... and hot water. It is downright luxury.

There is a knock at the door and the hotel porter brings Mike and I our spare clothing. We had left this behind as part of the baggage weight reduction. I had made sure I kept two pairs of trousers, a couple of shirts, spare underwear and handkerchiefs for the final two days in Nepal. I am so glad I planned in advance.

Now, sitting here in my underwear, I am waiting for Mike to finish his ablutions so that I can have my own shower and shave. It is so nice to be back in civilisation again.

The Summit Hotel is such a tranquil place - with birds tweeting in the trees and attentive staff. It is just nice to be chilling with no destination to walk to.

I must take the time to sort out my holdall for the flight home. First priority will be to make sure I have everything I need in my back pack, then everything else can be stuffed in the holdall.

Summit Hotel

Gardens

I book a head/shoulder massage for this afternoon as a treat for myself. This will cost 950NR. Some lads have already visited a barber down the road for a cut throat shave, haircut and head & shoulder massage... all for 200NR. Bargain - the only problem is that they all look like clones of each other.

Mike and I put all the costs of lunch, drinks and telephone calls on our room, so we can split the cost before we leave tomorrow. We can then get rid of the remaining rupees and dollars. Our flight is scheduled for 1700hrs, so we have to leave the Summit Hotel by 1300hrs. I do hope the flight isn't delayed.

I manage to phone my wife to let her know I am back in Kathmandu and looking forward to coming home. I decide to exchange £40 into rupees as we are out for a final 'Trek D' meal tonight - Thai I think. Rather than take a taxi, Mike and I decide to find our own way to Thamel... and what a cultural experience that is!

Thamel

I am armed with my trusty Silva compass, Mike with the map. We wander down side streets, observing at all the micro businesses operating out of shanty shacks. Some are recycling wire cables, burning off the outer plastic to get at the copper wire within - toxic fumes everywhere. No protection at all. Health and Safety - what's that?

We come across an old pedestrian suspension bridge which spans a filthy, polluted river that carves its way through the city. The locals stare at us as if we were the only Westerners ever to venture down these parts. We pass a couple of sleeping dogs, only to find them dead, left to rot in the street. One was a little puppy, its glassy eyes not registering the living world anymore. A harsh end to 'man's best friend'.

The busy traffic expresses its frustrations at pedestrians and vehicles alike. You take your life in your hands when choosing to wander through streets like this. Drivers lean on their horns at the slightest provocation. After breathing in pollution and deftly dodging traffic, we manage to locate the Kathmandu Guest House and close by, the Yin Yang Thai in Thamel.

Mike and I order two large bottles of San Miguel and settle down to watch the street life. Julia and Harriet were first to arrive, clutching numerous shopping bags. The rest of the team then begin to surface, with some unexpected visitors too.

A Radio 4 journalist carrying out research on porters in Nepal joins us. She is walking from Jiri to EBC for a feature on trekking. Another Jagged Globe leader is present, accompanying a chap from Trek G or H. He had been advised to return to Kathmandu because of shortness of breath whilst trekking.

We have a lovely meal and the chatter was incessant. Harriet asked me to say a few words to say thankyou to Deborah for leading Trek D. I jot down a few words, following the keep it short and simple mantra:

"Deborah, on behalf of trek D I would like to say a big thank you for your professionalism, your care and assistance and your friendship throughout the last 20 days or so. You expertly managed us, from the novice walker through to the more experienced adventurer. This is a little token of our appreciation. (Harriet to hand out presents). Please raise your glasses for Debbie."

After the meal we all jumped into taxis for the journey back to The Summit Hotel. I decided to go for a last beer and Lynn (Kathmandu XE Medical Centre) joined me to ask what had happened to me during the trek. After filling her in with the details, I finished my beer and departed for bed.

Tengboche to Namche [Day 18]

Getting stronger and stronger

I have another good sleep. This morning I actually find a sit-down loo in Tengboche (a rare commodity). On the trail again, I feel really strong and am up front most of the time, bounding up the steep slopes.

There is a strenuous ascent through Khumjung to the Everest View Hotel. A number of people start to drop behind and we arrive in fragmented groups.

Toiling up the slope

One of our guides with Mike (on the right)

Dawa - one of our guides

Arduous path to the Tengboche Monastery (Centre)

Everybody finally reaches the top and wander into the plush hotel. Many order drinks and sit chatting, recovering from the rigours of the day.

Before we leave for Namche, there is the usual problem with trying to get a group of people to pay a bill, exacerbated by the fact many are running short of NR. 

Everest View Hotel

After the bill is paid, we descend the mountain side into Namche. We then have to climb up the numerous steps to the Sherwi Khangba lodge.

It has been a very hot and humid day, so if this continues into tomorrow, I think I will trek out in my shorts. It is three days since I have washed and showered properly, considerably more for my Trek D colleagues following their ascent to Base Camp. I therefore anticipate there will some competition for the Namche showers tonight. I will leave my shower until others have taken theirs.

I must also check set aside sufficient funds to pay for my airport departure taxes and tips for the sirdar and porters. I need about 4200NR, leaving me with 700NR and £60 to get me home.

Nice image of the Namche 'bowl'

I enjoy my shower as hot water sluices away the day's filth. I feel like a new man dressed in clean clothes. Tonight the permanent staff are supposed to be organising a 'farewell party' in 'Club Namche'... as there was for Trek C.

No doubt the dynamics will be different with Trek D. I'm not interested in drinking alcohol tonight, nor do I wish to participate in any dance routines. Tomorrow is going to be a hard day walking to Lukla, so the last thing I want is a late night and a hangover, especially since I am only just rid of headaches and nausea.

The evening is as expected. An entertainment evening of drink and Ceroc dancing. It is nice that this has been arranged as a farewell 'party' by the permanent XE staff at Namche, but I believe our group would have been just as content to have a couple of beers and a natter, a few games of pool and then drift off to bed.

Mike and I leave around 2100hrs, although we were encouraged to stay the course. As far as I'm concerned, the proper celebration for Trek D will be the meal in Kathmandu.

We will be up early tomorrow. 0500hrs to watch the sun up on Everest, testing at 0600hrs, with breakfast at 0630hrs and away by 0700hrs.

Night night.

Namche [Day 16]

Freedom

I have another great sleep - from about 2045hrs right through to 0530hrs. It is nice to have a good wash in the morning, but then I struggle as to what to put on. The majority of my stuff is filthy and smelly. A breakfast of porridge, omelette on toast, a hot chocolate and hot lemon. It is great to have my appetite back.

I intend to walk into Namche today, have a good sort out of my holdall and perhaps have a shave and shower. I will then make sure I have everything packed and ready for my trek up to Tengboche.

Down in Namche, I visit a number of shops. I buy a scarf to keep the sun off my neck and a couple of mini karabiners. One will be useful for a safety loop on my camera bag; the other to fasten my water bottle to my rucksack.

Whilst wandering around the village, I see a little child peeking out of a doorway at me. There was no-one to ask if I could snap the picture (as I would normally do), so I just clicked the shutter. I find photographs a useful aid to memory. It is quite cool in the early morning, but the temperature soon rises. It is now 1015hrs.

I am really looking forward to heading back up to Tengboche tomorrow to meet my colleagues from Trek D. As I will have to leave my holdall behind, I must remember to take my room key with me to keep it secure. I will leave a note of my route and intentions too. I don't want Trek G's porters mistakenly removing my kit.

Inquisitive child

Entrance to Namche

Wash time

When I return to the lodge I ask for a bowl of hot water to shave off my beard. It takes two shaves to clear all the growth. As I am usually clean shaven in my day-to-day life, I feel so much better now.

Sitting here in my room writing my diary, flies are buzzing in through the window, attracted by the soiled toilet tissue in the bin beside the loo. I deny them access by shutting the door of the en-suite. I then decide it will be nicer to sit in the sunshine outside to read my book. However, the cold wind whipping around the front of the lodge soon has me scurrying inside again.

I decide to walk some way up the trail to the Norgay Tenzing Chorten. This is located in a fantastic spot with views up towards the Everest range. Magnificent. Studying the inscription on the commemorative plate, some moron has decided to deface it. What motivates a person to do this?

Route to Tenzing Norgay Chorten

Great view of the Everest range

I get the opportunity to speak with a few people from Trek G today. I tell them about my walk to Thamo and how delightful it was. Some choose to go out on an acclimatisation walk on this route. On their return they seek me out to thank me as they had really enjoyed the trip.

The pool table is empty, so I have a knock about with the balls to kill some time. Soon bored, I wander back into Namche again to take more photos of village life. I buy another litre of water and some chocolate.

On the walk back up to the lodge, I see an internet café and pop in to send a final email to my wife before our flight back to Kathmandu. I discover this internet has a fast satellite link, yet was cheaper than the connection at the lodge. I wish I had known about this before!

Back at the lodge, I go to the lounge and buy a hot chocolate, settling down to update my diary. Two blokes from Trek G are there with two mini radio-controlled helicopters. I am told their intention is to fly them at each acclimatisation stop to see what the effects of altitude are on lift. The machines whirr into life and buzz around the ceiling awhile before crashing into each other and spiralling to the floor.

The young Nepali woman serving afternoon drinks watches the incident and laughs, as do I. She wanders over to me, offering a handful of cashew nuts and sits down for a chat. Such a friendly response and a lovely gesture.

I remain in the lounge to have the evening meal, after which I feel tired. I retire to my room at 2000hrs to rest before tomorrow's exertions.

Kathmandu [Day 1]

Summit Hotel (1,308 metres)

We arrive at Kathmandu (The Summit Hotel) after a very long journey. I didn't enjoy the meal provided on our flight. It was very spicy and keeps repeating on me. I already suffer from an acidic indigestion... following an erosion of the stomach wall many years ago.

Welcome at Summit Hotel

I have lunch at the hotel - a quick snack and copious amounts of tea - and am now going into Kathmandu to take some photos. I wish my wife were here with me to share in this experience.

Testing tomorrow, then a flight to Lukla. Meanwhile, I manage to exchange some US$ for Rupees so all is OK for now. I'm hoping I will sleep well tonight.

Kathmandu

We book a taxi into Kathmandu and during the afternoon, tour the city. It is so noisy and pollution hangs like a London smog of old. A migraine-type headache develops over my left eye making me feel nauseous. This is a worry as I suffer from occasional migraines and this is the last thing I want to have on the trek.

Selling wares

Typical street scene

During the evening briefing, I am massaging my head trying to ease the headache. I take 2 x 500mg of paracetamol at 1900hrs with plenty of water. It is now 2055hrs and the pain is still there, but slightly dulled by the medication. It may be that I need to increase my intake of fluid - and hope the pain will be gone tomorrow morning.

Aches and pains

Back

For the last couple of days I have had aches in my hip and lower back. I just hope this isn't a problem starting to emerge before going trekking in the Himalaya. I tried doing some stretching exercises this morning to free up my spine. I think I will also have a hot bath as well. I must get this sorted before I fly out to Kathmandu.

I am going to recheck all my kit for Everest today, just to make sure I have everything and that I am under the 20kg weight limit for hold baggage. I have decided on taking a few extra items. For example, my Dictaphone to keep a diary on tape. This might be easier than writing a notebook - I also intend to capture the sounds of Nepal, to add to the many photos I intend to take.

Now I'm getting nearer the time for departure, it is bringing home just how much I'm going to miss my wife and family. Three weeks is a long time to be out of contact with them and I don't know how I will fare. It will probably be harder for my wife as she will be on her own, but I expect the kids will rally around to keep her company.