Lukla to Sinara to Kathmandu [Day 20]

Early flight out

I wake at 0515hrs in readiness for an early departure at Lukla Airstrip... the first flight out. I shake the two lads and then pack away my sleeping bag for the last time. A quick 'wash' with wet wipes and stumble downstairs with the holdalls, so the porters could take these for security clearance.

My thoughts return to home and I am quickly reminded that today is the anniversary of our grandson who sadly passed away a year ago. Goodness knows how my son and daughter-in-law must be feeling. I wish I was at home so that I could be there for them. It is also my dad's 79th birthday... and the poor chap is suffering from dementia in a care home.

Arriving at the departure hall, we find it is full of trekkers trying to get on the first flight out. Fortunately, our Sirdar and Trek Leader were up very early to get this reserved for us.

The time comes for us to say goodbye to the sirdar and his porters. It is really quite sad. We have been with them 24/7 for almost three weeks and they have become good friends. Llakpa seems genuinely upset to leave us. However, he is off to guide another trekking group to Base Camp very shortly, so he will have his hands full again in a couple of days.

We breeze through security and sit airside waiting for the first flight to arrive. It touches down safely and the last few snaps of Lukla Airport are taken.

Lukla Airport

Our flight awaits

Our holdalls are stowed, we are herded on-board, given cotton wool for our ears and a sweet to suck. I manage to get myself in a good position right behind the pilots, so I can take a video of the hairy take-off. The turnaround time for the aircraft is very short. Our own airport authorities could learn a trick or two from Lukla's slick operation.

The engines rev to a crescendo, the brakes release and we shoot off downhill towards the valley at the end of the runway. The pilot uses every inch, right to the warning lines at the bottom, only then rising into the air. How exhilarating. I capture the whole thing on my Olympus camera (no sound).

As we approach Kathmandu, there is clearly something amiss as the two pilots become very animated with their contact over the radio. It transpires there is a security incident at the main airport and we are to be diverted.

I look at the fuel gauges and we have less than 400lbs in each wing tank. A dangling warning tag informs me that there should always be a minimum of 200lbs retained in each tank. That doesn't seem to give us much leeway considering each tank has a maximum capacity of 2400lbs!

We fly for a further 15/20 minutes or so and land at Sinara Airport. I get out of the aircraft into tropical heat, compared with the early morning cool of Lukla.

Sinara Airfield (photo courtesy of Ralf)

Every bit of shade helps

There is the sound of insects and heat shimmers up from the ground. I am totally overdressed for this climate. I am in winter salopettes and a long sleeve wick away shirt. I seek the shade of the wing trying to keep cool, as the pilots wander off to get an update on the security position.



Pre-flight checks

After 15/20 minutes we are on our way again and land at Kathmandu without any drama. We double up, carrying a couple of holdalls each, to the waiting bus. It requires some effort to fight off numerous taxi drivers offering to take our bags for a tip. Once we board the minibus, we are off through the manic traffic of Kathmandu.

I take a rather shaky video of the arrival back at the Summit Hotel (no sound).

As soon as we arrive, the XE medical staff take control and we are whisked away to be weighed. I have lost over 3kg and am now down to 63kg. I was aged 17 the last time I was at this weight - remarkable. To make up for this weight loss we all dive into breakfast, looking forward to the change of diet. I eat fresh fruit, a bread roll and jam, fruit juice, omelette, coffee and tea.

Mike and I are allocated Room 104 this time. It has nice parquet flooring, cane furniture, a ceiling fan, twin beds and a conventional loo and shower in an en-suite... and hot water. It is downright luxury.

There is a knock at the door and the hotel porter brings Mike and I our spare clothing. We had left this behind as part of the baggage weight reduction. I had made sure I kept two pairs of trousers, a couple of shirts, spare underwear and handkerchiefs for the final two days in Nepal. I am so glad I planned in advance.

Now, sitting here in my underwear, I am waiting for Mike to finish his ablutions so that I can have my own shower and shave. It is so nice to be back in civilisation again.

The Summit Hotel is such a tranquil place - with birds tweeting in the trees and attentive staff. It is just nice to be chilling with no destination to walk to.

I must take the time to sort out my holdall for the flight home. First priority will be to make sure I have everything I need in my back pack, then everything else can be stuffed in the holdall.

Summit Hotel

Gardens

I book a head/shoulder massage for this afternoon as a treat for myself. This will cost 950NR. Some lads have already visited a barber down the road for a cut throat shave, haircut and head & shoulder massage... all for 200NR. Bargain - the only problem is that they all look like clones of each other.

Mike and I put all the costs of lunch, drinks and telephone calls on our room, so we can split the cost before we leave tomorrow. We can then get rid of the remaining rupees and dollars. Our flight is scheduled for 1700hrs, so we have to leave the Summit Hotel by 1300hrs. I do hope the flight isn't delayed.

I manage to phone my wife to let her know I am back in Kathmandu and looking forward to coming home. I decide to exchange £40 into rupees as we are out for a final 'Trek D' meal tonight - Thai I think. Rather than take a taxi, Mike and I decide to find our own way to Thamel... and what a cultural experience that is!

Thamel

I am armed with my trusty Silva compass, Mike with the map. We wander down side streets, observing at all the micro businesses operating out of shanty shacks. Some are recycling wire cables, burning off the outer plastic to get at the copper wire within - toxic fumes everywhere. No protection at all. Health and Safety - what's that?

We come across an old pedestrian suspension bridge which spans a filthy, polluted river that carves its way through the city. The locals stare at us as if we were the only Westerners ever to venture down these parts. We pass a couple of sleeping dogs, only to find them dead, left to rot in the street. One was a little puppy, its glassy eyes not registering the living world anymore. A harsh end to 'man's best friend'.

The busy traffic expresses its frustrations at pedestrians and vehicles alike. You take your life in your hands when choosing to wander through streets like this. Drivers lean on their horns at the slightest provocation. After breathing in pollution and deftly dodging traffic, we manage to locate the Kathmandu Guest House and close by, the Yin Yang Thai in Thamel.

Mike and I order two large bottles of San Miguel and settle down to watch the street life. Julia and Harriet were first to arrive, clutching numerous shopping bags. The rest of the team then begin to surface, with some unexpected visitors too.

A Radio 4 journalist carrying out research on porters in Nepal joins us. She is walking from Jiri to EBC for a feature on trekking. Another Jagged Globe leader is present, accompanying a chap from Trek G or H. He had been advised to return to Kathmandu because of shortness of breath whilst trekking.

We have a lovely meal and the chatter was incessant. Harriet asked me to say a few words to say thankyou to Deborah for leading Trek D. I jot down a few words, following the keep it short and simple mantra:

"Deborah, on behalf of trek D I would like to say a big thank you for your professionalism, your care and assistance and your friendship throughout the last 20 days or so. You expertly managed us, from the novice walker through to the more experienced adventurer. This is a little token of our appreciation. (Harriet to hand out presents). Please raise your glasses for Debbie."

After the meal we all jumped into taxis for the journey back to The Summit Hotel. I decided to go for a last beer and Lynn (Kathmandu XE Medical Centre) joined me to ask what had happened to me during the trek. After filling her in with the details, I finished my beer and departed for bed.

Monjo to Namche [Day 4]

Hard trek day

I am up early again in order to carry out our daily testing regime. My results for this morning are:
Resting: O2 92; HR 68; BR 12; BP 135/77; 116/78; 120/79. After exercise: O2 87; HR 138; BR 16.

Early morning testing

Early morning photo (courtesy of Felicity)

To reach Namche Bazaar (3,440 metres) today we trek along the Dudh Kosi valley, zigzagging the river across wire suspension bridges. It is spectacular. We take it nice and steady due to the heat. The steep inclines and altitude are starting to test us.

Wire suspension bridge

Prayer flags attached to the 'up river' side

An airy drop

Feats of engineering

The trail is very dusty coating everybody in a white film. The inside of my nostrils are crusted and filthy and I am looking forward to the cooler temperatures. This type of hot and dusty atmosphere plays havoc with my nasal passages.

Our Nepali guides

Porters carrying massive loads

The hot and dusty trekking trail

Rest break prior to the Namche 'hill'

Climbing the hill towards Namche, we manage to get our first glimpse of Everest through the trees. The loss of fluids through sweating, combined with the heat and dust, trigger another headache. At 1200hrs I take another 1,000mg of paracetamol to try and stem the discomfort.

As we enter Namche, an interesting blend of aromas floats by, ranging from sanitation through to cooking. Horses, chickens and yaks wander aimlessly around.

Beware of stray ponies

The climb up to Namche seems to take for ever. There are numerous stone steps through the village up to the lodge where we are due to stay. It is important to try use alternating legs to avoid stress on a particular limb. Topping out, we walk past a military camp on the knoll and head down into our lodge (which has a crashed Soviet type helicopter in its grounds).

The steep incline at Namche

Hotel Sherwi Khangba

As I am writing my diary, my headache seems to recede. I think the loss of sleep, combined with the heat and physical exertion are causal factors, but I will reserve judgement until I get higher into the colder atmosphere.

I manage to send an email to my darling wife at 1415hrs to let her know how I am. It costs 270NR - about £2.00. My aim this afternoon is to rest, have a shower and do some washing. I manage to go to the loo for a second time at 1430hrs - all OK thank goodness.

Sharing a room with Mike

Not a bad view from our window eh?

A shower is booked (200NR) and it is a scalding experience (I have to flick water on to me to wash). Nevertheless, I feel a whole lot better - even my headache seems to have eased. This additional spending is a little unexpected and I wish Jagged Globe had been more upfront about some of these 'extras'. Tomorrow, breakfast is scheduled for 0645hrs and I have also been given my programme of medical tests for the day. This means no food for 3 hours before the CPX at 1100hrs... damn it.

During the evening, there is a small presentation from the Namche Lab staff. We have been told to keep well hydrated to help with acclimatisation. Drinking alcohol is not advised.

Finally, before retiring, Llakpa (our Sirdar) offers to take us to a good viewing point at dawn to see the sun come up on Everest. This means rising at 0445hrs and meeting at 0500hrs. Strangely, just before bed my headache returns, resulting in a very uncomfortable night.

Lukla to Monjo [Day 3]

Thrilling flight

My alarm goes off at 0312hrs... it is disturbing to be woken that early, especially after so little sleep. It was difficult to sleep properly - we were kept awake until 0130hrs with Nepali New Year celebrations!

Mike disappears into the bathroom for a quick shave - with me shortly after. Quickly dressed, we go down for our early morning tests. We walk round to a small quadrangle at the rear of the hotel, where the equipment is waiting for us. I place the blood pressure cuff on my arm as the Kathmandu bird life tweets in the early morning light. A dog wanders over to see what we were doing.

We must be a strange spectacle, doing steps whilst monitoring O2 saturation and heart rates. The dog settles down in the yard, occasionally looking up and yawning. I know how he feels.

My results for today are: Resting - O2 96; HR 96; Breathing 11. BP 118/90; 128/81; 129/79.  After Exercise: O2 92; HR 131; Breathing 18.

A rickety bus takes us through the deserted streets towards Kathmandu airport, to pick up a domestic flight to Lukla. After a scrum to get our baggage through the departure hall, we finally board the twin prop 16 seat aircraft. This is cosy... one seat either side with just enough room for the aisle.

I decide to sit near the back... the stewardess brings us cotton wool for our ears and a boiled sweet to counteract air pressure. It is a smooth take off with a great flight between towering mountains as we fly up the valley towards Lukla.

Call sign 9N-AHE

Studying the emergency evacuation plan

Lukla (2,821 metres)

The landing is an experience in itself. There cannot be that many landing strips where the plane approach is nosing down, yet the runway actually goes uphill! All very unnerving, especially as there is a deep valley and steep hillside just before the landing strip starts.

Lukla Airport - safely disembarked

Lukla landing strip - an outgoing flight

First awe inspiring view of the mountains

We disembark and wander up to the first lodge to await the rest of our party. There are two individuals who had to get the next flight. Hot lemon drink is distributed and we have the first experience of Nepali loos... a stone hut with a tin roof and a hole cut in the floorboards, with a mound of excrement below... nice.

We have a lovely walk up the Khumbu, through Nurning (2,492 metres), Phakding (2,610 metres) and Benkar (2,630 metres), calling regularly at teashops to wet our thirst. Already one guy has bowel issues and my headache returns with a vengeance. Much of the blossom has fallen from the shrubs and trees at these lower levels.

Yak transport for our surplus kit

Mani stones

One of the many suspension bridges

The iconic Buddhist 'Chorten' or 'Stupa' of Nepal

The well maintained trekking trail

I am still experiencing a bad headache so decide to take 1,000mg paracetamol to try and alleviate the pain. We are gaining altitude towards Monjo (2,835 metres) and already the temperature is starting to fall, requiring a top layer and hat. There are very basic washing facilities here... two outside sinks with no hot water, accompanied by porcelain 'squatting loos' in floor.

Practice makes perfect

A nice evening meal is served up (dhal - lentils) with rice, mixed vegetables and potatoes... with hot lemon drink for fluids. Two of my fellow trekkers entertain with a heavy discussion on how to calculate the pressure of water in a pipe, moving on to how to calculate the capacity of the Jagged Globe holdalls... very cerebral!

Refreshments

I retire to bed at 2030hrs and have a good night sleep... that is until I wake to a loud bang and high-pitched squealing right next to my head. You can clearly hear rats are scurrying up and down inside the wooden walls of the room... two must have met head-on and have a right scrap. The joys of sleeping in lodges.

Footnote
Agni Air - Dornier 228-101. Registration 9N-AHE

In August 2010, Agni Air flight AG-101 departed at 07:04 on a normal domestic flight from Kathmandu (KTM) to Lukla (LUA), Nepal. At 07:18, the flight crew received reports that clouds were closing in on Lukla. It was decided to return to Kathmandu. A diversion to Simara Airport (VNSI) was impossible because that airport was closed because of bad weather.

The pilot attempted to fly a visual approach to Kathmandu runway 02, but the last radar contact was at 07:25. There had been a tragic accident - the Dornier Do 228-101 [9N-AHE] crashed into a hillside near Bastipur, Nepal and all fourteen on board were killed.

Loose tooth

Appointment

Deciding to have my teeth checked before travelling to Nepal, I was x-rayed and told there were fillings necessary. Funny though as there has been no discomfort to date. From time to time my gum has been a little sore, but I didn't connect this with a potential filling. However, I am now back at home, having had two fillings on Monday... and now I do have discomfort... also one of the teeth filled wobbles in its socket.

The dentist was very rough when drilling out the old amalgam, probably the roughest treatment I have ever had. I know, as I never have injections and can compare exactly how gentle they are when giving treatment. Though it did seem a very deep cavity. The two teeth took about four refills of the amalgam tool - she might have been better using a concrete mixer.

So what do I do now? I have telephoned the receptionist who is going to speak with the dentist concerned. Unfortunately though, she has no appointments for weeks, so I will have to phone to obtain an emergency appointment. The receptionist took my telephone number and will get back to me if something can be done on a regular appointment. I won't expect to pay for remedial treatment though, so I hope they don't try charging me again.

I carried out a test pack of my Jagged Globe holdall yesterday and everything fits in - and well within the weight restriction as well. Thank goodness. I was worried I might have to leave stuff behind. I am frightened that I might forget something, so have been meticulous it preparing lists and making sure I have everything I might need. I am slightly worried my bag might go missing on the domestic flight to Heathrow, but this is just an irrational fear and I shouldn't let it dominate my mind. I still have some small items to pack... but these are major in their importance... toilet roll for example. I mustn't forget these!