Kathmandu to Bahrain [Day 21]

No more tests

Waking early, we have the final physical tests before handing in our research diaries.

This morning my results were:
Resting - O2 95; HR 70; BR 9.  BP 146/88; 128/84; 127/83.  After exercise - O2 94; HR 123; BR 13.

I return the completed diary to the XE staff and question them over how my data would be utilised, particularly as my trek had differed somewhat from those of my colleagues on Trek D. I was told in no uncertain terms that my data would be amalgamated with all the other statistics after which it would all be analysed.

A contribution to medical research was a major driver for me when deciding to come on this expedition, especially that relating to intensive care, so I feel quite comforted in the knowledge that my data won't be discarded as 'invalid'.

Leaving the Summit Hotel for the last time, the heavens open and the rain pours down. Perhaps Kathmandu is shedding tears for our departure?

We get on the minibus, but as it navigates the narrow streets outside the hotel, we manage to get stuck in a 'traffic jam'. The road is barely wide enough for two vehicles to pass and the stubborn nature of Nepali drivers mean that often an impasse is reached, neither party moving forwards or backwards.

Last day... and rain

We are there for about 25 minutes, honking horns and moving backwards and forwards a couple of feet to let traffic through, with no real intent at reaching a resolution. Everybody is tense, not wishing to miss our flight. I feel like jumping out to direct the traffic, as the solution seems so obvious.

The humidity levels are rising in the bus and so are tempers... but the experienced Nepal travellers have seen it all before and are quite chilled about it. Finally, the main instigator, a tanker driver, sees the obvious solution and pulls out of the way down a side road, freeing up the situation.

We arrive at Kathmandu Airport and there is the usual scrummage to check holdalls in for weighing. Deborah decides to do this as a group, so as to offset any potential baggage excess - but chaos reigns after someone loses their boarding ticket. It is far easier to check in your own luggage, so there is individual responsibility. If there is excess baggage to pay, then that individual settles up.

My rucksack is given a cursory examination at security and I am released through for boarding. The flight is delayed slightly due to a missing passenger (perhaps the one with the missing boarding ticket), but within half an hour we are on our way, turbulence included.

The plane for this part of the flight is a Boeing 767-300 Gulf Traveller seating 257 in Economy Class. The flight is nothing spectacular and I sleep most of the way, apart from being wakened for lunch. A spicy rice and chicken dish, with a lychee and a carrot/cucumber mix. I don't find this appetising at all, leaving most of it on the plate. Hopefully the next flight meal will be better.

We arrive at Bahrain pretty much on time, but now have a six hour wait for our next flight at 0130hrs tomorrow morning. After the experience of sitting around in departures for an extensive period on our way out, we decide to pay the extra and go into the Executive Lounge.

For 27US$ this is good value. Reclining leather chairs, free food and drink, newspapers to read etc. We take full advantage of the facilities and the time passes quickly. I try to send a text message to the family, but my Sony Ericsson K700i battery is dead. I tried to source a charger, to no avail.

Executive Lounge, Bahrain (photo courtesy of Ralf)

Impetuously, I decide to go down to Duty Free to see if I can buy a replacement charger, but none are compatible. I end up buying a new Sony Ericsson Z710i in duty free using my credit card. I settle down to charge it up in the Executive Lounge and attempt to send a message, but it won't send. By the time I find out what the problem was, time had run out and I was due on board.

So much for my 'great idea'.

Lukla to Sinara to Kathmandu [Day 20]

Early flight out

I wake at 0515hrs in readiness for an early departure at Lukla Airstrip... the first flight out. I shake the two lads and then pack away my sleeping bag for the last time. A quick 'wash' with wet wipes and stumble downstairs with the holdalls, so the porters could take these for security clearance.

My thoughts return to home and I am quickly reminded that today is the anniversary of our grandson who sadly passed away a year ago. Goodness knows how my son and daughter-in-law must be feeling. I wish I was at home so that I could be there for them. It is also my dad's 79th birthday... and the poor chap is suffering from dementia in a care home.

Arriving at the departure hall, we find it is full of trekkers trying to get on the first flight out. Fortunately, our Sirdar and Trek Leader were up very early to get this reserved for us.

The time comes for us to say goodbye to the sirdar and his porters. It is really quite sad. We have been with them 24/7 for almost three weeks and they have become good friends. Llakpa seems genuinely upset to leave us. However, he is off to guide another trekking group to Base Camp very shortly, so he will have his hands full again in a couple of days.

We breeze through security and sit airside waiting for the first flight to arrive. It touches down safely and the last few snaps of Lukla Airport are taken.

Lukla Airport

Our flight awaits

Our holdalls are stowed, we are herded on-board, given cotton wool for our ears and a sweet to suck. I manage to get myself in a good position right behind the pilots, so I can take a video of the hairy take-off. The turnaround time for the aircraft is very short. Our own airport authorities could learn a trick or two from Lukla's slick operation.

The engines rev to a crescendo, the brakes release and we shoot off downhill towards the valley at the end of the runway. The pilot uses every inch, right to the warning lines at the bottom, only then rising into the air. How exhilarating. I capture the whole thing on my Olympus camera (no sound).

As we approach Kathmandu, there is clearly something amiss as the two pilots become very animated with their contact over the radio. It transpires there is a security incident at the main airport and we are to be diverted.

I look at the fuel gauges and we have less than 400lbs in each wing tank. A dangling warning tag informs me that there should always be a minimum of 200lbs retained in each tank. That doesn't seem to give us much leeway considering each tank has a maximum capacity of 2400lbs!

We fly for a further 15/20 minutes or so and land at Sinara Airport. I get out of the aircraft into tropical heat, compared with the early morning cool of Lukla.

Sinara Airfield (photo courtesy of Ralf)

Every bit of shade helps

There is the sound of insects and heat shimmers up from the ground. I am totally overdressed for this climate. I am in winter salopettes and a long sleeve wick away shirt. I seek the shade of the wing trying to keep cool, as the pilots wander off to get an update on the security position.



Pre-flight checks

After 15/20 minutes we are on our way again and land at Kathmandu without any drama. We double up, carrying a couple of holdalls each, to the waiting bus. It requires some effort to fight off numerous taxi drivers offering to take our bags for a tip. Once we board the minibus, we are off through the manic traffic of Kathmandu.

I take a rather shaky video of the arrival back at the Summit Hotel (no sound).

As soon as we arrive, the XE medical staff take control and we are whisked away to be weighed. I have lost over 3kg and am now down to 63kg. I was aged 17 the last time I was at this weight - remarkable. To make up for this weight loss we all dive into breakfast, looking forward to the change of diet. I eat fresh fruit, a bread roll and jam, fruit juice, omelette, coffee and tea.

Mike and I are allocated Room 104 this time. It has nice parquet flooring, cane furniture, a ceiling fan, twin beds and a conventional loo and shower in an en-suite... and hot water. It is downright luxury.

There is a knock at the door and the hotel porter brings Mike and I our spare clothing. We had left this behind as part of the baggage weight reduction. I had made sure I kept two pairs of trousers, a couple of shirts, spare underwear and handkerchiefs for the final two days in Nepal. I am so glad I planned in advance.

Now, sitting here in my underwear, I am waiting for Mike to finish his ablutions so that I can have my own shower and shave. It is so nice to be back in civilisation again.

The Summit Hotel is such a tranquil place - with birds tweeting in the trees and attentive staff. It is just nice to be chilling with no destination to walk to.

I must take the time to sort out my holdall for the flight home. First priority will be to make sure I have everything I need in my back pack, then everything else can be stuffed in the holdall.

Summit Hotel

Gardens

I book a head/shoulder massage for this afternoon as a treat for myself. This will cost 950NR. Some lads have already visited a barber down the road for a cut throat shave, haircut and head & shoulder massage... all for 200NR. Bargain - the only problem is that they all look like clones of each other.

Mike and I put all the costs of lunch, drinks and telephone calls on our room, so we can split the cost before we leave tomorrow. We can then get rid of the remaining rupees and dollars. Our flight is scheduled for 1700hrs, so we have to leave the Summit Hotel by 1300hrs. I do hope the flight isn't delayed.

I manage to phone my wife to let her know I am back in Kathmandu and looking forward to coming home. I decide to exchange £40 into rupees as we are out for a final 'Trek D' meal tonight - Thai I think. Rather than take a taxi, Mike and I decide to find our own way to Thamel... and what a cultural experience that is!

Thamel

I am armed with my trusty Silva compass, Mike with the map. We wander down side streets, observing at all the micro businesses operating out of shanty shacks. Some are recycling wire cables, burning off the outer plastic to get at the copper wire within - toxic fumes everywhere. No protection at all. Health and Safety - what's that?

We come across an old pedestrian suspension bridge which spans a filthy, polluted river that carves its way through the city. The locals stare at us as if we were the only Westerners ever to venture down these parts. We pass a couple of sleeping dogs, only to find them dead, left to rot in the street. One was a little puppy, its glassy eyes not registering the living world anymore. A harsh end to 'man's best friend'.

The busy traffic expresses its frustrations at pedestrians and vehicles alike. You take your life in your hands when choosing to wander through streets like this. Drivers lean on their horns at the slightest provocation. After breathing in pollution and deftly dodging traffic, we manage to locate the Kathmandu Guest House and close by, the Yin Yang Thai in Thamel.

Mike and I order two large bottles of San Miguel and settle down to watch the street life. Julia and Harriet were first to arrive, clutching numerous shopping bags. The rest of the team then begin to surface, with some unexpected visitors too.

A Radio 4 journalist carrying out research on porters in Nepal joins us. She is walking from Jiri to EBC for a feature on trekking. Another Jagged Globe leader is present, accompanying a chap from Trek G or H. He had been advised to return to Kathmandu because of shortness of breath whilst trekking.

We have a lovely meal and the chatter was incessant. Harriet asked me to say a few words to say thankyou to Deborah for leading Trek D. I jot down a few words, following the keep it short and simple mantra:

"Deborah, on behalf of trek D I would like to say a big thank you for your professionalism, your care and assistance and your friendship throughout the last 20 days or so. You expertly managed us, from the novice walker through to the more experienced adventurer. This is a little token of our appreciation. (Harriet to hand out presents). Please raise your glasses for Debbie."

After the meal we all jumped into taxis for the journey back to The Summit Hotel. I decided to go for a last beer and Lynn (Kathmandu XE Medical Centre) joined me to ask what had happened to me during the trek. After filling her in with the details, I finished my beer and departed for bed.

Tengboche to Namche [Day 14]

'Club Namche'

The two guys I share a room with tonight, one has the bed on the left hand side of me, the other the right hand bed. I am already in my bag when they decide to retire for the evening. Almost immediately they manage to fall asleep. One goes silent before gasping and sucking in a lungful of air, whilst the other is rasping steadily.  Stereo snoring... yep, stereo.  I swear I don't sleep a wink. I will not name them... but if they read this blog, they'll know who they were.

I am now sat in the lodge, bleary eyed, writing my diary. It is cold - the dung burner from last night now asleep - out of fuel. Looking around the room, it is covered with posters of expeditions. Everest (South Koreans) 2003; Pumori (Italians); Llotse (South Koreans) 2007; Ama Dablam 2002; K2 (South Koreans) 2006. There is also a poster about Jamling Tensing Norgay's book "Touching My Father's Soul" - which looks like it might be a good read. There are also old photographs of Tengboche Monastry and various Buddhist posters. In the background a radio blares out Nepali political propaganda... and a mix of nationalities come and go for breakfast... Brits, French, Koreans, Nepalis.

This morning the smell of the drains is overpowering, drifting into the lodge. This isn't very conducive to eating breakfast. The term 'drains' is too elaborate for what exists here, as sewage discharges into a pit below the porcelain squat and left to decay... hence the strong smell.

My camera seems to be eating batteries lately... due to the cold temperatures. I must set up my solar panel and recharge them all.

We set off a little later than scheduled - 0815hrs. A long descent down to the Dudh Kosi... and a nice steady climb to Sangsun. The sun shines steadily and the rhododendrons are out in pink force. A very large bird circles above the valley and I grab my camera to take some shots of it. I don't think it is a Golden Eagle, most likely a Lammergeier.

Rhododendrons clinging to the hillside

Out in bloom

Prayer wheel

Well maintained trekking trail

Opportunity to buy souvenirs

Himalayan birch

Lammergeier

Namche

Arriving at Namche, there is a comforting familiarity about the place.  A return to good accommodation, good food... proper sit down toilets and hot showers. Civilisation.

I check in with the duty doctor at the Namche Laboratory (Jo) at 1500hrs and hand her my medical data (this had been copied to a USB drive by the Kiwi doctor at Pheriche). After a further examination and discussion of my current situation, I am 'signed off' as being medically fit again.

I seize the moment and ask for permission to go trekking on my own. This will help offset my disappointment at not getting to Base Camp and might allow me to rejoin my Trek D colleagues as they descend towards Namche. Jo said she would speak with Monty... the Lab boss.

I decide to see if I can get on the internet, however I find this is occupied by the Americans from the Imax team filming our expedition. I decide to try again later rather than waiting.

It is now extremely busy at the Sherwi Khangba Hotel with multiple trekking groups in residence. My current group (Trek C) have just arrived, Trek F are here having been delayed by bad weather flying out from Kathmandu to Lukla, and now Trek G are arriving too.

Trek F happens to be John Caudwell's team (a major sponsor of the whole expedition), hence why the Imax film crew are accompanying him. The accommodation is full to overflowing.

Contingency Plan

I have not been asked to continue with Trek C, so it seems I will have to wait until my original group (trek D) arrive in Namche. I decide to go and check their trekking schedule and discover they are not due in Namche until the 29th April, a day later than I expected. It is only the 25th April today, so I will need to decide what I'm going to do in the interim. Studying my maps, I put a rough plan together.

On the 26th, I will ask permission to trek up the adjacent valley to visit the Thamo Nunnery. We had completed a short section of this route during the Trek D acclimatisation walk, so at least part of the route would be familiar to me. This will involve minimal risk.

I'll use the 27th for personal admin... to organise having a shower and shave, and to sort my kit out.

I will then seek permission to trek back up the Khumbu trail on the 28th, to see how far I can get before surprising my Trek D colleagues as they descend from Dingboche. Excited, I went to layout my plans to the permanent staff.

Whilst I was waiting for a decision to be taken, I bump into Kit Spencer of Summit Trekking (who organises the Nepali side of operations for Jagged Globe). The Summit Hotel (where he is Managing Director), is a fantastic bit of real estate in Kathmandu and a lovely retreat from the hustle and bustle of the city.

Kit is an ex-Gurkha Officer and I have a great deal of respect for what he has built over here and for what he contributes to Nepali society. He is in Namche today overseeing all operations to make sure everything runs smoothly for the Imax team and Caudwell group.

As we sit in the lounge we have a chat and Kit patiently listens to my story of headaches and sickness. He is very understanding, but quite firm in his opinion that the right decision was taken in not allowing me to progress from Pheriche. I could have become a real problem to the group if my health had deteriorated further. His recommendation was - it is best to make the most of my Himalayan experience in other ways. It's not just about getting to Base Camp!

Then the news I'd been waiting for - permission has been granted for me to go solo trekking, as long as I leave details of my route and timings... and check back in afterwards. This clears the issue of my trek to Thamo, but more important to me was the longer trek back up the Khumbu to meet up with my own trekking group.

On this particular matter, I am advised to accompany Trek G to Tengboche and wait there for my group to arrive, in case of any relapse with my headaches. This makes sense I suppose, but I was really looking forward to trekking back up on my own. I am confident that I know the route having covered it twice, once up and then down again. Also I am now feeling extremely fit and well. I promise to myself, I will make the decision what to do after seeing how I perform on my day trek to Thamo.

That evening, after I finally manage to get on the internet and email my wife with the up-to-date position. I am sitting with the members of Trek C, their Sirdar and porters in a private annex of the Namche Lodge. There is a warm hubbub of conversation and the guitar appears again.

A rendition of Trek C's song is given in preparation for the Farewell Party at 'Club Namche' - and I sing along to the chorus: "Hey, hey, feeling blue; Yaks on the mountain two by two; Who'd believe what we've been through; Let's go back to Kathmandu". Of course, having a musical director amongst us (Harry) helps no end.

At 'Club Namche', the evening is a success. Trek C perform their song, as did the Sirdar and his porters. The Club Namche permanent staff do their best to entertain with some type of dance instruction. I just stand at the bar with a beer chatting and philosophising about life in general.

Whilst Trek C are gathered together, I decide to thank them for making me so very welcome. This was politely received and everyone clapped - it will be nice to see them off tomorrow as they head for home - but I will be sad to see them go. I will have to get up early tomorrow (0530hrs) to see Trek C depart for Lukla, so I decide to retire early to the 'dormitory' (six lads sharing together).

A good evening, with good company and a fitting farewell to Trek C - thanks folks for making me so welcome.

Kathmandu [Day 2]

Testing

I wake at 0620hrs and tentatively raise my head... is the headache still there...no, thank goodness. My room buddy (Mike), is still asleep and snoring. I go to the bathroom, have a wash and shave.

I update my diary and think through how I might reduce the weight of my kit to 15kg. This allowance is imposed for the flight to Lukla... and for the yaks that are going to transport our gear.

Room 206 - ours for the short stay at Summit Hotel

I manage to arrive at the testing 'station' in time for my first research appointment. My results for today are: Resting O2 (oxygen saturation) 98, with a heart rate of 66 beats per minute and a breathing rate of just 12 breaths. My blood pressure readings are 129/79, 139/83 and 123/74. After exercise for two minutes, my O2 is 95, Heart Rate 131 and Breathing Rate 13.

Slightly concerned about getting enough water, I purchase a 1 litre bottle from the bar of the hotel. Breakfast consists of orange juice, muesli and fruit, pancakes and syrup, bacon and omelette, plus a cup of tea. My favourite meal of the day.

Chatting to one of the young doctors who are on our trek, after a quick question and answer session, she diagnoses my head pain as 'cluster headaches'. It seems one of the symptoms is a watery eye... which I do tend to suffer from.

I decide to email my wife which takes some time (as a fellow trekker hovers over me wanting to use my Hotmail account to contact his partner too). Stupidly, I make an error with my wife's email address which results in it being returned. Damn it... I have to go through it all again. Success in the end though.

I retire to a lovely cool spot under the trees, with the breeze blowing through my toes. I have a little time to kill before being called for my blood tests, spirometry and CPX tests (on the bike). Three phials of blood will be extracted.

My spirometry test is now complete with yet another good result, achieving 147% of that expected for a man of my age and weight. The spirometry test involves breathing in deeply and then expiring the lungs completely through a calibrated unit... and then inhaling fully again. The second test requires one to take a deep breath in... and then exhale/inhale rapidly for 12 seconds, until told to stop. This can make one feel quite light-headed.

The CPX tests are over by 1520hrs - yet another good test with 253w and a great VO max. This involves riding an exercise bike for an extended period, whilst being wired up to all types of measuring equipment. The tension on the bike is raised (ramped up), making it harder to cycle at the 60 revolutions required. This puts the body under quite a bit of stress, raising the work rate of the lungs and heart, which are all monitored. My heart rate peaks at over 200 beats per minute (at max output) which seems overly high to me.

I talk to the researcher about the reasons for my trip. The tragic loss of our grandson almost a year ago is not something I talk about much, but telling the story again opens that locked trapdoor in my head. The memory of that fated day floods back and the emotions begin to well up. It will be the anniversary of his birth and his death while I'm away.

I decide to go out for a run and Mike accompanies me. We didn't go far - about 3 miles in total. During the run I start to feel rather uncomfortable - people appear to be staring at us. I seem to remember reading somewhere that 'short' shorts are not culturally acceptable in Nepal. Whoops... my first mistake and probably not my last.

We quickly return to the hotel and I decide to go for a swim in the nice cool pool, but this seems to trigger my headache again. I take more paracetamol at 1700hrs and decide to have an early night - we have to be up at 0345hrs to do our medical diaries/tests. Breakfast is at 0445hrs and then we leave for the Lukla flight at 0515hrs.

Summit Hotel - gardens and pool

Kathmandu [Day 1]

Summit Hotel (1,308 metres)

We arrive at Kathmandu (The Summit Hotel) after a very long journey. I didn't enjoy the meal provided on our flight. It was very spicy and keeps repeating on me. I already suffer from an acidic indigestion... following an erosion of the stomach wall many years ago.

Welcome at Summit Hotel

I have lunch at the hotel - a quick snack and copious amounts of tea - and am now going into Kathmandu to take some photos. I wish my wife were here with me to share in this experience.

Testing tomorrow, then a flight to Lukla. Meanwhile, I manage to exchange some US$ for Rupees so all is OK for now. I'm hoping I will sleep well tonight.

Kathmandu

We book a taxi into Kathmandu and during the afternoon, tour the city. It is so noisy and pollution hangs like a London smog of old. A migraine-type headache develops over my left eye making me feel nauseous. This is a worry as I suffer from occasional migraines and this is the last thing I want to have on the trek.

Selling wares

Typical street scene

During the evening briefing, I am massaging my head trying to ease the headache. I take 2 x 500mg of paracetamol at 1900hrs with plenty of water. It is now 2055hrs and the pain is still there, but slightly dulled by the medication. It may be that I need to increase my intake of fluid - and hope the pain will be gone tomorrow morning.