Namche to Thamo and return [Day 15]

Trek C depart

I wake early with Trek C. The dormitory comes alive at 0530hrs with the usual type of lads banter. My bag was lovely and warm and it was tempting to stay put, but I really wanted to say 'goodbye' to the team who had welcomed me so openly. The 'dorm' will feel strangely empty when they depart.

Yaks loaded and ready

Farewell to Trek C

I go outside to say my goodbyes to Trek C - my surrogate family for the last few days. I mingle with them chatting... we shake hands, hug, take the obligatory group photo and go our separate ways.

The yaks and their loads saunter off up the steps and through the arch. Trek C wander off too, waving their trek poles in return of the many waves from the few that are staying behind.

Peace returns to the lodge  and I am all alone again amongst the remnants of unfamiliar trekking groups. It is a good job I am quite independent and sure of my own company, otherwise it would be a very lonely experience.

Well, let's get sorted for today. I must go and get breakfast... then have a wash. I better see what my accommodation arrangements are as well. I'm sure they won't want me in the large dorm on my own, which is a shame as it is a nice airy room.

I feel a more positive attitude emerging to offset my previous disappointment. In fact, I am really looking forward to doing some exploring on my own. The highlight will be rejoining my Trek D colleagues... but I am also looking forward to trekking over to Thamo.

I am allocated Room 106 for the rest of my stay. I move my stuff from the dormitory and settle down to sort everything out for the day. This room overlooks the front of the lodge and has an en-suite sit down loo. Luxury!

I wander downstairs to set off for Thamo (3,493 metres).

Walk to Thamo

Climb out of Namche

Quarry above Namche

Trail from the quarry

It is a wonderful morning and I take a different route over the ridge to the quarry. By following the contours, I manage to locate a trail I recognise from our acclimatisation walk and drop down through the rhododendron forest, which is festooned with flowers. Beautiful.

A tiny wren-like bird follows me from bush to bush as I whistle similar sounds to his call - he is only a couple of feet away, peering at me from behind the foliage.

Exotic mani stone

Sagarmatha National Park

Heading for the Chorten in the distance

Down to the river

River crossing

The noise of the river gets louder and louder as I descend to the valley floor. The three logs across the milky white gush of water able to be navigated with ease. On the opposite bank, a burnt patch of earth is evidence of where the porters stop for rest, as we had seen on our acclimatisation walk with Trek D. It seems many days ago now.

I soon pass the teashop where we originally turned around and continue up the hill on new ground. I remember how, if we upped the pace just ever so slightly, we would end up panting and out of breath in no time. No such problem now as I romp up the steep path - just shows how one acclimatises to ones surroundings. I feel in absolutely A1 condition... and fitter than I have done for ages.

Arriving at the top of the rise, I turn the corner to see a great scar in the landscape where the river has carved its way into the mountain. A wide expanse of rock where the river has split into many routes, finding its own way down the valley, to merge into one again at the bottom. I look further ahead up the mountain... and there nestled in the hillside is Thamo.

Thamo - nestling in the hillside

It seems so close and yet I discover it takes another half-hour before I walk up the path into the village. I pass a tiny hydro-power station built by the Austrian Government, the waterfalls from the hillside being swallowed into the turbines. Prayer flags bedeck the trees as the water tinkles and sparkles in the sunlight. I stand there for a good five minutes mesmerised.

Mani stones and prayers

Austrian NGO-funded hydro-power project

No competition - just stand aside and let them through

Delightful village

Wandering up between the little houses, I greet the locals with the usual 'Namaste' (meaning 'I salute the divine within you', but is used as both Hello and Goodbye). I take care to approach the mani stones and Chortens in the right way, going around them on the left side to ensure the prayers are sent up the mountain correctly. A basic respect for another culture.

The village is a riot of colour, not only from the prayer flags, but the different coloured roofs of the huts and lodges. Trying to locate the Nunnery, I glance higher up the mountain. Often these buildings are at the top of the village in the highest vantage point and I locate what seems to be a likely candidate. I make a beeline for it and in the event have to wind my way up a path between bleached white stone walls. Steep steps lead me to a wooden gate and a sign indicating the Khari Nunnery.

Khari Nunnery

A new prayer hall under construction

I put my jacket on to respectfully cover my arms and enter the complex. I pass what seems to be a building under construction and am met by a shaven-headed Tibetan lady in purple floor length robes. She beckons me down some steps towards the sound of chanting. I discover numerous discarded pairs of sandals, flip flops and shoes and sit down to remove my own footwear. Although I am only a UK size 7, my boots look massive in comparison.

Approaching a decorated curtain over a hidden doorway, the chanting gets louder - pulling this to one side reveals a brightly decorated prayer hall, with 20/25 robed nuns sitting cross-legged, chanting mantras, ringing bells and clashing cymbals. I am offered a seat on the floor at the head of the service. A prayer mat is brought for me and I adopt the same cross-legged posture as the nuns, so as not to offend by showing the soles of my feet. I am given a cup of yak tea, which I sip quietly... this has quite a sour taste, but isn't unpleasant.

Listening with my eyes closed for some of the time, I feel very relaxed. The rhythm of the mantras become soporific... really quite calming. I somehow feel at peace and 'right' with the world.

I have a good look around at what the nuns were doing. Each have a part to play in the service, either by blowing into a conch shell, or ringing a bell, or starting up a mantra. At times they rest and sip their own tea... and then start up again.

Not knowing how long the service is to last, I finish my tea, place a 200NR donation in the collection box, bow my head with my hands together, utter 'Namaste', rise gently and leave through the curtain. I put my boots back on and depart feeling enlightened.

Lower down the hill towards the village, I stop at a little stall to buy a ringing bowl as a memory of my remarkable trip to the nunnery - 700NR, less than £7. I am now sitting in the courtyard of a local shop writing up my diary, having purchased a litre of water and a Mars bar for my return journey.

The owner seems fascinated by my writing... and a cow has just wandered down the path and is leaning over the low wall behind me, watching me drink from my water bottle.

I walk back through the village and set off along the trail at a good pace. I am feeling extremely strong and romp along. As I go over the log bridge for the second time today, I take an alternative path back to Namche, much higher on the mountainside. This seems to be newly-constructed and the flora and fauna are fantastic. Tiny ice-blue mountain Iris are dotted around in flower - beautiful. I take a couple of photos on self-timer to remind myself of the wonderful day I have experienced... at one point nearly tripping in my rush to get into position.

Heading out of the village again

Back at the river crossing - no yaks this time

Alternative path back to Namche

Farmstead above Namche

Flora

and fauna

Namche again

I arrive back in Namche at 1530hrs and end up chatting to another Brit who is trekking to Everest Base Camp on his own. He had taken the wrong turning and ended up in Thamo (completely the wrong valley).

I therefore point him in the right direction, advising that it is about a three-hour walk to Tengboche, with a hard climb at the end. I suggested he might get a lodge lower down and tackle the climb in the morning, particularly in view of his lengthy diversion today. I don't know whether he heeds my advice but off he trots on the correct route at last.

I have a quick check of the cash in my wallet: 300NR (about £3); 110 US$ (about £55) and 60 UK£. This should be enough to last me for the remainder of the trek.

Medical Lab at Namche

I report to the Med Centre to say I am back safe from my trip to Thamo. I chat with the duty doctor and explain how well I am feeling. As a result, my request to walk up to meet Trek D is granted, but it is conditional on accompanying Trek G, who will be leaving for Deboche the same day.

Unfortunately, I have not really bonded with the members of Trek G, so don't really want to be 'shackled' to them. I will therefore see if the Trek G leader approaches me to make arrangements. If he doesn't, I will set off in advance of the group, knowing that if anything untoward happens en-route, I can just sit it out and wait to be 'swept up'.

I return to my room where I start to plan for the walk to meet up with Trek D. It will be necessary to leave my main holdall in Room 106 whilst I head off up the trail... but will still need a certain amount of kit to cover all eventualities.

I will pack my sleeping bag, wash kit, med kit and put in some extra layers and waterproofs just in case I am caught out with the weather. It normally starts quite cool and then quickly heats up, if previous days are anything to go by. With the steep climb to Tengboche, I will be sweating buckets, so must take enough fluids with me. There is no hurry though to get it all sorted, as I still have one spare day to do all my admin, so decide to leave it for tomorrow.

I bump into another doctor on the permanent staff (Goli) - she invites me to a viewing of 'Everest' the Imax movie after tea. In the event, the film shows promise, but the DVD keeps skipping, then there is a power cut. Furthermore, only Trek G were in attendance and I find myself having to explain who I am and why I am in Namche when my own group (Trek D) are much further up the trail, so decide to return to the saloon for a bedtime drink.

Dr Jo notices me sitting on my own drinking my hot chocolate, and takes the opportunity to sidle over. She has my Med Reports on the USB drive and passes them back to me. This now incorporates a report for Deborah (my Trek D Leader), with other copies for the Kathmandu Med Centre and my own Practitioner.

I retire to bed and read my Med Reports - no surprises there.

Tengboche to Namche [Day 14]

'Club Namche'

The two guys I share a room with tonight, one has the bed on the left hand side of me, the other the right hand bed. I am already in my bag when they decide to retire for the evening. Almost immediately they manage to fall asleep. One goes silent before gasping and sucking in a lungful of air, whilst the other is rasping steadily.  Stereo snoring... yep, stereo.  I swear I don't sleep a wink. I will not name them... but if they read this blog, they'll know who they were.

I am now sat in the lodge, bleary eyed, writing my diary. It is cold - the dung burner from last night now asleep - out of fuel. Looking around the room, it is covered with posters of expeditions. Everest (South Koreans) 2003; Pumori (Italians); Llotse (South Koreans) 2007; Ama Dablam 2002; K2 (South Koreans) 2006. There is also a poster about Jamling Tensing Norgay's book "Touching My Father's Soul" - which looks like it might be a good read. There are also old photographs of Tengboche Monastry and various Buddhist posters. In the background a radio blares out Nepali political propaganda... and a mix of nationalities come and go for breakfast... Brits, French, Koreans, Nepalis.

This morning the smell of the drains is overpowering, drifting into the lodge. This isn't very conducive to eating breakfast. The term 'drains' is too elaborate for what exists here, as sewage discharges into a pit below the porcelain squat and left to decay... hence the strong smell.

My camera seems to be eating batteries lately... due to the cold temperatures. I must set up my solar panel and recharge them all.

We set off a little later than scheduled - 0815hrs. A long descent down to the Dudh Kosi... and a nice steady climb to Sangsun. The sun shines steadily and the rhododendrons are out in pink force. A very large bird circles above the valley and I grab my camera to take some shots of it. I don't think it is a Golden Eagle, most likely a Lammergeier.

Rhododendrons clinging to the hillside

Out in bloom

Prayer wheel

Well maintained trekking trail

Opportunity to buy souvenirs

Himalayan birch

Lammergeier

Namche

Arriving at Namche, there is a comforting familiarity about the place.  A return to good accommodation, good food... proper sit down toilets and hot showers. Civilisation.

I check in with the duty doctor at the Namche Laboratory (Jo) at 1500hrs and hand her my medical data (this had been copied to a USB drive by the Kiwi doctor at Pheriche). After a further examination and discussion of my current situation, I am 'signed off' as being medically fit again.

I seize the moment and ask for permission to go trekking on my own. This will help offset my disappointment at not getting to Base Camp and might allow me to rejoin my Trek D colleagues as they descend towards Namche. Jo said she would speak with Monty... the Lab boss.

I decide to see if I can get on the internet, however I find this is occupied by the Americans from the Imax team filming our expedition. I decide to try again later rather than waiting.

It is now extremely busy at the Sherwi Khangba Hotel with multiple trekking groups in residence. My current group (Trek C) have just arrived, Trek F are here having been delayed by bad weather flying out from Kathmandu to Lukla, and now Trek G are arriving too.

Trek F happens to be John Caudwell's team (a major sponsor of the whole expedition), hence why the Imax film crew are accompanying him. The accommodation is full to overflowing.

Contingency Plan

I have not been asked to continue with Trek C, so it seems I will have to wait until my original group (trek D) arrive in Namche. I decide to go and check their trekking schedule and discover they are not due in Namche until the 29th April, a day later than I expected. It is only the 25th April today, so I will need to decide what I'm going to do in the interim. Studying my maps, I put a rough plan together.

On the 26th, I will ask permission to trek up the adjacent valley to visit the Thamo Nunnery. We had completed a short section of this route during the Trek D acclimatisation walk, so at least part of the route would be familiar to me. This will involve minimal risk.

I'll use the 27th for personal admin... to organise having a shower and shave, and to sort my kit out.

I will then seek permission to trek back up the Khumbu trail on the 28th, to see how far I can get before surprising my Trek D colleagues as they descend from Dingboche. Excited, I went to layout my plans to the permanent staff.

Whilst I was waiting for a decision to be taken, I bump into Kit Spencer of Summit Trekking (who organises the Nepali side of operations for Jagged Globe). The Summit Hotel (where he is Managing Director), is a fantastic bit of real estate in Kathmandu and a lovely retreat from the hustle and bustle of the city.

Kit is an ex-Gurkha Officer and I have a great deal of respect for what he has built over here and for what he contributes to Nepali society. He is in Namche today overseeing all operations to make sure everything runs smoothly for the Imax team and Caudwell group.

As we sit in the lounge we have a chat and Kit patiently listens to my story of headaches and sickness. He is very understanding, but quite firm in his opinion that the right decision was taken in not allowing me to progress from Pheriche. I could have become a real problem to the group if my health had deteriorated further. His recommendation was - it is best to make the most of my Himalayan experience in other ways. It's not just about getting to Base Camp!

Then the news I'd been waiting for - permission has been granted for me to go solo trekking, as long as I leave details of my route and timings... and check back in afterwards. This clears the issue of my trek to Thamo, but more important to me was the longer trek back up the Khumbu to meet up with my own trekking group.

On this particular matter, I am advised to accompany Trek G to Tengboche and wait there for my group to arrive, in case of any relapse with my headaches. This makes sense I suppose, but I was really looking forward to trekking back up on my own. I am confident that I know the route having covered it twice, once up and then down again. Also I am now feeling extremely fit and well. I promise to myself, I will make the decision what to do after seeing how I perform on my day trek to Thamo.

That evening, after I finally manage to get on the internet and email my wife with the up-to-date position. I am sitting with the members of Trek C, their Sirdar and porters in a private annex of the Namche Lodge. There is a warm hubbub of conversation and the guitar appears again.

A rendition of Trek C's song is given in preparation for the Farewell Party at 'Club Namche' - and I sing along to the chorus: "Hey, hey, feeling blue; Yaks on the mountain two by two; Who'd believe what we've been through; Let's go back to Kathmandu". Of course, having a musical director amongst us (Harry) helps no end.

At 'Club Namche', the evening is a success. Trek C perform their song, as did the Sirdar and his porters. The Club Namche permanent staff do their best to entertain with some type of dance instruction. I just stand at the bar with a beer chatting and philosophising about life in general.

Whilst Trek C are gathered together, I decide to thank them for making me so very welcome. This was politely received and everyone clapped - it will be nice to see them off tomorrow as they head for home - but I will be sad to see them go. I will have to get up early tomorrow (0530hrs) to see Trek C depart for Lukla, so I decide to retire early to the 'dormitory' (six lads sharing together).

A good evening, with good company and a fitting farewell to Trek C - thanks folks for making me so welcome.

Dingboche to Tengboche [Day 13]

Descent to familiar places

I spend the waking hours beating myself up over whether I could have continued with Trek D to Base Camp. However, the severe headaches/migraine were so debilitating it would have been impossible. Yet it is remarkable how, even after a short while, one tends to forget how ill you feel at the time.

The feeling of failure is all consuming - I know I must change my negative thinking. I must accept the opportunity to go to Everest Base Camp on this occasion has now been and gone. It is in the past. I must get over my disappointment and get on with it. 

Looking to the positive, I am walking in the Himalayas and seeing these great mountains with my own eyes. I am getting to know the marvellous Nepali people, always happy despite living in hardship a lot of the time. I have achieved a 'summit' of 4,400 metres which is more than many do in a lifetime. I am therefore going to make the most of the remaining time I have here in Nepal and plan to re-join Trek D if it is at all possible.

Leaving Dingboche

After breakfast, I accompany Trek C as we walk out of Dingboche. Cold at first, it soon warms up. The trail is still very dusty despite the snow and cloud of the previous day. Many of the ascending trekkers have scarves over their faces to keep this at bay.

Route out of Dingboche

There is a lovely line of mani stones on the ridge as we head down towards Pangboche. I have stayed on the periphery of the group, not wishing to upset the dynamics of the team. I have to say this is quite nice, wandering along on my own, just occasionally interacting with members of the team.

Mani stones - always pass on the left

Arriving at the junction for Upper and Lower Pangboche, Machma (Sirdar for Trek C), takes us up the hill to Upper Pangboche.

Upper Pangboche

We descend into the village and stop at the Gompa Lodge & Restaurant. This is located in a yard and there is a smell of wood smoke pervading the area. White stone walls surround us and there is the sound of crows in the background. The sun is beating down and I feel very content and at peace with life. For once on this expedition, I do not have a headache, despite the exercise.

Gompa Lodge

We all remove our backpacks and stack the trekking poles along the wall. Many of Trek C go to see the service at the Gompa - I stay behind to take photos. Suddenly, the clanking of bells alerts me to a procession of yaks. Before I could get out of the way I am surrounded by beasts coming every which way. A young Nepali girl beckons me to safety in her yard and the yaks clank past, eying me with baleful eyes.

A proud and dominant Yak

Yaks take priority on the trail

After lunch, the path out of Upper Pangboche is delightful. We walk through carefully tended crop terraces, all contained by neat stone walls, no mean achievement at this height. The attractive painted Chortens along the trail commemorating Buddhist remains or artefacts.

Commemorative Chortens

We have a colourful walk through the flowering rhododendrons towards the Deboche lodge we stayed at on the way up. This is one of my most favourite parts of the trek as it contours the mountainside and follows the Dudh Kosi river. However, it is a hard final slog up the hill to Tengboche where we were to stay for the night.

I am 'billeted' with two older guys in a very cramped three bed room, with just leg room in between.  Reflecting on my day today, I feel superbly fit with no hint of a headache at all. Was my burden due to altitude... who knows? Even the medics don't seem to be that sure - all I know is that I was in a lot of pain much of the way up the Khumbu to Pheriche, especially in the afternoons.

As we have some time to kill before tea, I decide to disappear off on my own and explore Tengboche. I find a pathway up to the prayer flag ridgeline, where the wind whistles away the prayers, delivering them to the higher reaches of the Everest mountain range. Pure solitude.

Prayer flag ridge - Tengboche

Seed offerings and prayer flags

I have been in the company of others for most of the trek and yet here was real peace and quiet. No sound of man... at all. Just the shriek of the wind cresting the ridge with the flapping prayer flags.

Feeling emotional, about failure to get to EBC, my health, missing my family, I'm not ashamed to say I have a little cry. Why is it shedding tears always seems to help the inner psych, as I certainly feel much better afterwards?

Feeling quite spiritual and at peace

I decide to place an expensive call to my wife to reassure her about my state of health - also to tell her that I am missing her loads. Furthermore, I don't want her accessing the web to find a report that Trek D had arrived at EBC and then find I'm not on the photo. This would worry her no end.

She is upset I hadn't been able to continue to EBC... but I reassure her that I am functioning well now and will give more detail in an email to our son tomorrow when I reach Namche.

I am now sitting in the teashop with two members of Trek C, Chris and Jacquetta, enjoying a mug of hot chocolate. Both are delightful company. Jacquetta Megarry is an author who writes/publishes trekking and walking books. I manage to remember her website, a wonderful resource for anyone interested in walking and trekking: www.rucsacs.com.

I have had a really good day which makes up for some of the disappointment with the trek. I feel it can only get better here on in... and yet I am looking forward to getting home too.

To kill more time I wander into the Tibetan Eco Centre and watch a film on Buddhism. This religion seems to have a lovely approach to life... being peaceful, gentle, happy and helpful to others... all things we in the western world can improve at.

I return to the lodge where all the Sirdars and porters are singing around a roasting yak dung burner - a wonderful atmosphere. I sit with the Trek C members whilst they give a recital of their 'trekking song'. John (the trek leader) has a guitar and is playing along. In response, the sherpas and porters sing a terrific melodic ditty that has everyone clapping to the rhythm.

The lodge is filled with us Brits down one side, South Koreans down another, French at one end with the Nepali sherpas/porters at the other. To our surprise, Harry (who is in the music business and worked with George Martin), announces that there is a Choonhae Juliana Lee in the room (a famous Opera singer from S Korea).

Juliana is on her way to EBC to sing for the South Korean Summit Team, but will give us a short impromptu performance. Harry said this will be the highest altitude that Juliana had ever sung before... and has to be careful with her voice. Juliana promptly stands up, introduces the song 'Arida - a National Folk Tune', and burst into voice. She gives a stunning performance and brings the house down. What a memorable evening.

As I depart for bed with my head torch on, in the periphery of the light I notice the old Tibetan mastiff that I'd seen padding around earlier. Poor lad and obviously in discomfort, he scratches away at his numerous sores and boils, as he lies down to sleep. I feel quite fortunate - at least I'll be comfortable in my sleeping bag... poor thing.

Tibetan mastiff

Namche [Day 5]

Acclimatisation

The throbbing focal headache just above my left eye stops me sleeping properly during the night. I toss and turn... probably doze, but don't get the deep sleep I am seeking. On the positive side though, I am lovely and warm in my new 4-season Mountain Equipment sleeping bag (Iceline 950).

As I am awake early, I meet up with Llakpa at 0500hrs and wander over to the viewing point with him. I manage to take a few photos as the sun comes up on the Everest range - amazing.

Fortunately I feel reasonably well this morning - no headache and quite energetic. However, when I use the loo my motion is a little eager to leave me. I do hope this doesn't become an additional problem to worry about, as some people are already suffering from D & V!

Everest Range

As part of the acclimatisation schedule, our trek leader arranges for us to walk out towards Thamo (3,493 metres). A lovely wander through rhododendron forests along a trail following the contours of the mountain. I take some photos of beautiful blue mountain iris.

Mountain Iris

Acclimatisation walk towards Thamo

Toilet facilities - with the river far below

I manage to get on the internet this afternoon, but some bad news awaits. My mum had been rushed into hospital for an emergency operation to have an abscess removed from her bowel. She is not in the best of health anyway, but the good news is that she has pulled through. This puts my headaches into perspective.

I am over-charged sending my latest email today. Despite only being online for 20 minutes, I pay 1100NR (about £8) - about £6 too much. I decide not to make a fuss, it will go to a good cause - the Nepali people.



Namche Bazaar - Hotel Sherwi Khangwa (top LH side)

Rather depressingly, my headache returns with a vengeance. I take 1,000mg of paracetamol at 1200hrs, then again at 1600hrs... but the pain iss still there at 1915hrs. I hope it goes overnight, especially as I have my tests tomorrow.