Namche to Tengboche and beyond [Day 17]

Meeting up with Trek D

I wake at 0425hrs having gone to bed at 2000hrs. I am excited at the prospect of trekking back up the trail to meet my team.

I get downstairs too early for breakfast and chat with the sirdar and porters of Trek G. The sirdar is a very experienced climber and has accompanied Alan Hinks on expeditions. One of his porters (Husan Sunawar) exchanges email addresses with me so we can keep in touch once I return to the UK.

My thoughts wander back to home, to my wife and family. It will be strange to get back to normality. I will have things to catch up on... to get back on my computer, read and answer my emails, sort out my finances and continue renovation work on our cottage. I will also need to sort out my Xtreme Everest photos, write up my blog and plan my next trip (the Crib Goch ridge walk on Snowdon with my son). So many good positive things to look forward to, but for now I need to pack my rucksack and get on the trail after breakfast.

I have my normal diet of porridge, omelette on toast and lemon tea and finish before Trek G come down for breakfast. I return to my room to pack my rucksack with the essentials. I pack my sleeping bag, wash kit, waterproofs, medical kit and extra layers... fill my water bottle, use the loo and then leave a note pinned to my holdall of my route, plans and timings. I lock the room, pocket the key and walk out of the lodge.

I wander past the crashed helicopter, up the steps and out through the entrance arch to the lodge grounds. There are a number of locals around as I head through the narrow alleyways leading to the open hillside and the trail to Tengboche.

I set out at a good pace and it is great being on my own again. I find that when trekking alone there is a sense of freedom. Many of the porters carrying loads are more inclined to stop and chat. The locals carry huge burdens up the mountain to supply the lodges with goods and materials.

Ideal resting place

Lovely walk through the forest

This is the main highway to get goods up the trekking trail in support of the climbing industry. Helicopters can be used, but this form of transportation is so much more expensive. I suspect only the very wealthy expeditionary forces can use this as a norm. It's not just adults that act as porters - there are children, perhaps as young as twelve, carrying massive loads too. Some of the sights defy explanation, but I'll try.

One particular guy is carrying four sheets of thick ply roped together. Each sheet must be 6' x 3' x 0.5" and the weight immense. I would have difficulty lifting just one sheet... and yet here he is with this load suspended by a band around his forehead. His tendons and muscles are straining with the weight as he walks... in flip flops... heading for Tengboche and beyond. The weight must have been well in excess of 60kg!

With my lightweight pack I continue to romp along, the route and places now very familiar. I take more photos of Everest and particularly of Ama Dablam, and soon arrive at the base of the climb up to Tengboche. I make sure I have a rest at the bottom, taking the opportunity to use the loo, get fluids inside me and refuel with a Mars Bar.

The temperature has risen and it is still only mid-morning. The trail up to Tengboche snakes its way, ever upwards. The dust is powder dry, coating my boots and filling my nostrils. I keep resting where I can in the shade to take on more liquid. I am soaked in sweat.

The porters also take regular rests. There seem to be convenient points where there are ledges in the stone walls, so they can lean their loads without having to remove them. I am in awe of the carrying ability and stamina. It is all I can do to keep going uphill, placing one leg after another... and all I am carrying is a measly rucksack.

There is another porter who has a towering basket. It is full of crates of San Miguel beer, with boxes of confectionery beneath. He is toiling upward ever so slowly, his brow furrowed with the weight and strain of carrying. Someone else has a carcass of some meat or other on his back, open to the elements, with flies buzzing around in the heat.

With great relief I finally top out at Tengboche - it is just 1045hrs having set out from Namche at 0745hrs.

Nice to stop and chat

I am still feeling strong and the weather is excellent, so decide to push on through Deboche to head up to Pangboche. I know permission for this has not been granted for this extension. However, I consider the risk low. In any case, Trek D will be descending down the trail, so we will bump into each other sooner or later.

This section of the trail is delightful... much of it through colourful rhododendron forests, high above the Dudh Kosi.

Rhododendron trail

Just after Deboche, I meet one of the Trek D porters. He recognises me instantly and comes over to give me a hug. He seems genuinely pleased to see me, and me him. This makes me feel a million dollars. I discover the team are about an hour away. This gives me plenty of time to head further up the trail, as they are descending from Dingboche.

I arrive at the distinctive bridge below Pangboche. This is not a hawser suspension bridge like most, but is constructed out of scaffolding tube. I arrive at the archway which welcomes the trekker to Upper and Lower Pangboche. Unsure as to which route Trek D would have taken, I decide to wait on an outcrop of rock, high above the valley.

Shortly, a small group of porters ascending the trail stop for a rest. I offer them some of my biscuits and soon the whole packet has been devoured. The porters are chatting between themselves and seem to be looking at my rucksack. I discover they are laughing at the solar panel and my GPS fastened to the side. I'm sure this causes them great amusement, as it is really not that difficult to follow the trail. Certainly not for those who use this route regularly to transport goods ever higher with nothing more than flip flops, trousers, shirt and jacket.

It's not long before the porter group continue leaving me on my own again. I have a great view up towards Ama Dablam, my favourite mountain. Ama Dablam means 'mother’s necklace' because the long ridges on each side of the mountain are like the arms of a mother (ama) protecting her child. The hanging glacier is thought of as the dablam (a traditional double-pendant containing pictures of the gods) worn by Sherpa women.

Waiting for Trek D to arrive

Ama Dablam

The sun is beating down and I have removed my rucksack to settle down to wait for Trek D to arrive. Lying on my back, enjoying the warmth, I hear bells clanking in the distance. These warn anyone on the trail to get out of the way. The yaks soon come into view, heavily loaded with blue Jagged Globe expedition bags.

I get up and go to speak with our yak herder who grins in recognition. She tells me the group are not far away. It's not long before I recognise Deborah's (Trek Leader) yellow rucksack bobbing down the hill.

The group seemed surprised to see me, but with many hugs and handshakes, I am back in the womb of my team again. Two of the group (Dennis and Nadia) have taken an extension to their trekking holiday, so are no longer with us.

Mike comes over to greet me. It is great to have his company again and I am eager to hear of their experience at Base Camp. We walk back to Tengboche chatting and catching up with the news. I also have to fill them in about what has happened to me since being left at Pheriche.

Many have had an uncomfortable time at EBC, especially with the effects of altitude and cold. A number have bad coughs. It is clear they would not have wished to have missed it. On the other hand they wouldn't want to repeat the experience. I don't think they are saying this just for my benefit. I remember looking at Trek C after they had arrived at Dingboche and thinking how drained they looked. Trek D now have that similar gaunt look.

I am talking to Llakpa (our Sirdar) climbing the hill out of Deboche, when we are surprised by three horses thundering downhill around a corner of the trail. One poor animal has his leg caught up in a saddle that has slipped. We only just manage to leap out of the way as they crash into the undergrowth near a steep precipice. Fortunately, they manage to regain the trail, but are heading straight for the rest of our group.

We shout out warnings before a breathless monk comes into view. He continues running after his wayward mounts.

Arriving back at Tengboche for the fourth time (for me), it is incredible how a place becomes very familiar. Mike decides to billet with me again. After dumping our bags in our allocated room, I ask him if he would like to walk up the ridge to the prayer flags.

I mention I had found it quite spiritual. In the event I had left my scarf tied to a bush and said a prayer for the health and happiness of my family. Mike offers to say some words in prayer for me too, but I kindly decline and he takes a photo of me instead. 

Prayer flag ridge at Tengboche

Dingboche to Tengboche [Day 13]

Descent to familiar places

I spend the waking hours beating myself up over whether I could have continued with Trek D to Base Camp. However, the severe headaches/migraine were so debilitating it would have been impossible. Yet it is remarkable how, even after a short while, one tends to forget how ill you feel at the time.

The feeling of failure is all consuming - I know I must change my negative thinking. I must accept the opportunity to go to Everest Base Camp on this occasion has now been and gone. It is in the past. I must get over my disappointment and get on with it. 

Looking to the positive, I am walking in the Himalayas and seeing these great mountains with my own eyes. I am getting to know the marvellous Nepali people, always happy despite living in hardship a lot of the time. I have achieved a 'summit' of 4,400 metres which is more than many do in a lifetime. I am therefore going to make the most of the remaining time I have here in Nepal and plan to re-join Trek D if it is at all possible.

Leaving Dingboche

After breakfast, I accompany Trek C as we walk out of Dingboche. Cold at first, it soon warms up. The trail is still very dusty despite the snow and cloud of the previous day. Many of the ascending trekkers have scarves over their faces to keep this at bay.

Route out of Dingboche

There is a lovely line of mani stones on the ridge as we head down towards Pangboche. I have stayed on the periphery of the group, not wishing to upset the dynamics of the team. I have to say this is quite nice, wandering along on my own, just occasionally interacting with members of the team.

Mani stones - always pass on the left

Arriving at the junction for Upper and Lower Pangboche, Machma (Sirdar for Trek C), takes us up the hill to Upper Pangboche.

Upper Pangboche

We descend into the village and stop at the Gompa Lodge & Restaurant. This is located in a yard and there is a smell of wood smoke pervading the area. White stone walls surround us and there is the sound of crows in the background. The sun is beating down and I feel very content and at peace with life. For once on this expedition, I do not have a headache, despite the exercise.

Gompa Lodge

We all remove our backpacks and stack the trekking poles along the wall. Many of Trek C go to see the service at the Gompa - I stay behind to take photos. Suddenly, the clanking of bells alerts me to a procession of yaks. Before I could get out of the way I am surrounded by beasts coming every which way. A young Nepali girl beckons me to safety in her yard and the yaks clank past, eying me with baleful eyes.

A proud and dominant Yak

Yaks take priority on the trail

After lunch, the path out of Upper Pangboche is delightful. We walk through carefully tended crop terraces, all contained by neat stone walls, no mean achievement at this height. The attractive painted Chortens along the trail commemorating Buddhist remains or artefacts.

Commemorative Chortens

We have a colourful walk through the flowering rhododendrons towards the Deboche lodge we stayed at on the way up. This is one of my most favourite parts of the trek as it contours the mountainside and follows the Dudh Kosi river. However, it is a hard final slog up the hill to Tengboche where we were to stay for the night.

I am 'billeted' with two older guys in a very cramped three bed room, with just leg room in between.  Reflecting on my day today, I feel superbly fit with no hint of a headache at all. Was my burden due to altitude... who knows? Even the medics don't seem to be that sure - all I know is that I was in a lot of pain much of the way up the Khumbu to Pheriche, especially in the afternoons.

As we have some time to kill before tea, I decide to disappear off on my own and explore Tengboche. I find a pathway up to the prayer flag ridgeline, where the wind whistles away the prayers, delivering them to the higher reaches of the Everest mountain range. Pure solitude.

Prayer flag ridge - Tengboche

Seed offerings and prayer flags

I have been in the company of others for most of the trek and yet here was real peace and quiet. No sound of man... at all. Just the shriek of the wind cresting the ridge with the flapping prayer flags.

Feeling emotional, about failure to get to EBC, my health, missing my family, I'm not ashamed to say I have a little cry. Why is it shedding tears always seems to help the inner psych, as I certainly feel much better afterwards?

Feeling quite spiritual and at peace

I decide to place an expensive call to my wife to reassure her about my state of health - also to tell her that I am missing her loads. Furthermore, I don't want her accessing the web to find a report that Trek D had arrived at EBC and then find I'm not on the photo. This would worry her no end.

She is upset I hadn't been able to continue to EBC... but I reassure her that I am functioning well now and will give more detail in an email to our son tomorrow when I reach Namche.

I am now sitting in the teashop with two members of Trek C, Chris and Jacquetta, enjoying a mug of hot chocolate. Both are delightful company. Jacquetta Megarry is an author who writes/publishes trekking and walking books. I manage to remember her website, a wonderful resource for anyone interested in walking and trekking: www.rucsacs.com.

I have had a really good day which makes up for some of the disappointment with the trek. I feel it can only get better here on in... and yet I am looking forward to getting home too.

To kill more time I wander into the Tibetan Eco Centre and watch a film on Buddhism. This religion seems to have a lovely approach to life... being peaceful, gentle, happy and helpful to others... all things we in the western world can improve at.

I return to the lodge where all the Sirdars and porters are singing around a roasting yak dung burner - a wonderful atmosphere. I sit with the Trek C members whilst they give a recital of their 'trekking song'. John (the trek leader) has a guitar and is playing along. In response, the sherpas and porters sing a terrific melodic ditty that has everyone clapping to the rhythm.

The lodge is filled with us Brits down one side, South Koreans down another, French at one end with the Nepali sherpas/porters at the other. To our surprise, Harry (who is in the music business and worked with George Martin), announces that there is a Choonhae Juliana Lee in the room (a famous Opera singer from S Korea).

Juliana is on her way to EBC to sing for the South Korean Summit Team, but will give us a short impromptu performance. Harry said this will be the highest altitude that Juliana had ever sung before... and has to be careful with her voice. Juliana promptly stands up, introduces the song 'Arida - a National Folk Tune', and burst into voice. She gives a stunning performance and brings the house down. What a memorable evening.

As I depart for bed with my head torch on, in the periphery of the light I notice the old Tibetan mastiff that I'd seen padding around earlier. Poor lad and obviously in discomfort, he scratches away at his numerous sores and boils, as he lies down to sleep. I feel quite fortunate - at least I'll be comfortable in my sleeping bag... poor thing.

Tibetan mastiff

Pheriche to Dingboche [Day 12]

Feeling all alone

I have a good sleep for my last night at the 'White Yak'. A quick wash using wet wipes, I freshen up, clean my teeth and use the loo - all signs that I am getting back to normal. Best of all is that I am headache-free. I also pass almost a litre of urine during the night - however it was dark yellow, almost brown, indicating I have still not taken enough liquid on-board.

The view from my window

At breakfast, everyone in Trek E are really friendly and supportive. This team seem to have a much more relaxed attitude to rising in the morning for the tests... tending to drift downstairs in one's and two's. I am unsure whether I am still required to carry out my own tests because my Trek group have departed. I also wonder if all the medication I've been taking will adversely affect the results. Nobody seems to know, so I participate in any case.

Results for today are: Resting - O2 80; HR 67; BR 9.  BP 145/81; 144/82; 140/80. Unfortunately, nobody is available to test my 'At exercise' rates.

Departure

The Trek E leader checks with me to determine a convenient time to go to Dingboche (4,410 metres). He still needs to arrange a porter to accompany us. I say I am happy to fit in with his plans - he mentions a 0900hrs departure - so I agree and thank him.

I go back to my room and pack my holdall. I also get my rucksack sorted out for the climb over the ridge. I leave my holdall outside for the porter and sign for my extra days lodging and meals.

My kit - farewell to Pheriche

The Trek E leader and his porter meet me outside at 0900hrs ready to accompany me to Dingboche. The route is a rough track that winds up the steep hillside outside the White Yak. I am glad to be feeling much better as both set a blistering pace.

I must have gained some of my strength back overnight as I am not breathing too hard, despite the extra altitude gain and effort. We summit the ridge quickly and start to descend to Dingboche past a large Chorten with fluttering prayer flags. I can see the village spreading out below.



Dingboche - from the top of the village

As we descend, the Trek E leader suddenly says he doesn't know which lodge he was supposed to escort me to - he had forgotten to ask. In the event, we decide to head for the top of the village and work our way down making enquiries. Sods law it is the very last lodge at the lowest point in the village!

Peaceful Lodge

The Trek E leader stays for some refreshment before heading back. I give his porter 100NR and settle their bill. The Trek E leader then mentions that he has paid his porter 500NR to transport my holdall from Pheriche, but advised me he would take it out of his contingency fund. I am at a bit of a loss as to what the correct protocol was in this situation. After a final chat, they leave me alone with the Nepalese family at the Peaceful Lodge and Restaurant - it is only 1015hrs.

I wish I can be certain this is definitely my rendezvous point for Trek C. I now have the rest of the day to kill before the other group of trekkers arrive. I therefore decide to put my holdall in an unoccupied room and have a wander up the valley.

I put on my rucksack and start up the central village path through Dingboche. A little stream gurgles its way downhill amongst the stones as I make my way between stone walls and mani stones. I keep greeting people 'Namaste' as I pass them and before I know it, I am heading out of the village at the top of the valley.

Dingboche is an altogether nicer place than Pheriche. The sun appears to stay longer in this valley and the wind seems much less severe. I then decide to gain height up to a ridgeline to get a better view back to the village.

The trail climbs steadily upwards and despite taking it easy, I begin to feel light-headed. There is just a vague glimmer of a headache. As a precaution, I turn around to descend back to the lodge, getting back at 1150hrs.

Barren terrain at Dingboche

Rather bored, I wander over to the sun lounge to continue reading my book (Memoirs of a Mountaineer by F Spencer Chapman). There is an old Nepalese man in the lounge chanting mantras, spinning a hand held prayer wheel. A little snot-nosed girl comes over to me and brings her playing cards and slides for her hair. She offers these to me, wanting me to play. We try to build the cards as high as we can until they all fall down... and she smiles with a big grin.

Looking through the window, we notice snow beginning to fall. All the family members rush out to cover their vegetable patch... the little girl included. A tarpaulin is stretched out and heavy stones laid as anchors to hold it down in the rising wind. The soil starts to steam as the snow lands. The earth has retained its heat from the sun's rays in the thin atmosphere. No wonder these people are burnt brown... which explains how we are also getting tanned and need the attention of a Factor 50 cream.

Protection for the crops

The little girl comes back to play cards with me and noticing a dirty mark on one, promptly spits on it and wipes it with her sleeve. Porters walk past the entrance to this lodge carrying their heavy loads ever higher up the mountain. Ghostly figures in the driving snow.

I decide to go back to my room where I take a preventative Sinex tablet and vow I will never leave my wife at home, no matter what sort of adventure beckons.

My room at the Peaceful Lodge

After a short while I decide it is not very healthy, emotionally, sitting on my own in my room, so I lock up and go to the lodge dining room. To my surprise I come across someone I know. Helen, a fellow volunteer with Trek C had been at Pheriche suffering from D & V - I wasn't aware she hadn't been able to continue to EBC.

She had been escorted to Dingboche the other day when I was really poorly, ready to accompany Trek C to Namche as well. It was so nice to have a friendly face, confirming this was the correct lodge.

The owner of the lodge lit the Yak dung burner in the dining room and everybody huddles round trying to get some of its early warmth. Two other trekkers have joined Helen and I. An Australian woman who is trekking on her own and a German climber who has been here many times, but is suffering from early AMS. He has had to descend to Dingboche for further acclimatisation.

The Australian lady is really chatty. A lovely woman who works with socially-deprived youngsters back home. Approaching the yak burner for more heat, she gets a little close and the front of her duvet jacket melts into a hole. Feather down starts to float everywhere. 'Shit, shit, shit' she shouts, for the down jacket is rented. She spent the rest of the afternoon trying to darn the man-made fabric and mend the hole.

My thoughts extend to Trek C having to navigate their way back down from EBC during the snowfall. An early start will have been necessary to have attempted Kala Pattar (5,199 metres), before descending via Gorak Shep. It is now 1615hrs and there are no signs of them. The cloud base has also dropped, mist cloaking everything... and the temperature is plummeting.

Trek C yaks start to arrive... unloading is an unceremonious affair. Bags thrown left, right and centre. The yaks are carrying their own food in the form of hay bales. It won't be long before the trekkers arrive - it is now nearly 1700hrs. I hope I get the same friendly welcome as that from Trek E.



Trek C transportation

Snow is falling heavily now - I'm so glad to be here in the warm, toasting my feet and hands on the yak burner and drinking lemon tea. Suddenly, through the gloom, people begin to arrive. I go out to greet them as they have experienced a very long, difficult day. It is 1800hrs and they had been trekking from before 0600hrs.

John Dick (Trek C Leader) comes straight over to introduce himself. He has met Deborah (Trek D Leader), so had been expecting me. He is a lovely chap - a true gentleman in every sense. The evening was spent chatting and Trek C make me very welcome - a lovely group of people, every single one.

Tired, I excuse myself for bed, visiting the basic loo on the way. To my horror I discover I have diarrhoea. I take the anti-bacterial drug, clothrimazole and an Imodium in the hope that this works overnight before having to trek down to Tengboche tomorrow at 0830hrs.

Pheriche [Day 11]

Accepting defeat

I feel very, very odd this morning. On the positive side my headache has disappeared, but I did't urinate during the night and my throat is bone dry. I am really, really thirsty. I am very light-headed and unsteady on my feet, quite shaky and feel most strange.

Breakfast is uninspiring - I just manage to stomach porridge but can't face the chapattis. I feel generally unwell with no energy at all. I just want to lie down and rest. Last night's experience seems to have completely drained me.

I struggle to complete the normal tests before breakfast and feel very fragile. The results are: Resting - O287; HR 67; BR 12.  BP 161/88; 159/87; 154/88.  After exercise - O276; HR 135; BR 22.

I also notice my blood pressure readings are rising, correlating to the higher altitude.

Pheriche - one of the routes to Everest

Looking out the front door of the lodge, it is a beautiful morning. Snow has fallen overnight and the valley is carpeted with a white blanket. It is very bright and I am overly sensitive to light, having to squint to see. The light is so harsh up here due to the altitude.

I am fearful that my headache is going to return, particularly as it is the first time I have been totally pain-free since landing in Kathmandu.

After breakfast, I decide to update the doctor about my state of health. He confirms that he will not sign me off to continue to Base Camp. He has already made arrangements for me to descend down to Namche with another trek group. This means I will have to bid farewell to my Trek D buddies. I am absolutely gutted.

I am devastated it has come to this. I really wanted to get to EBC and contribute to the research into intensive care following the tragic loss of our grandson.

It is so hard not to feel a failure for not achieving my ambition to reach Base Camp. I also feel I have let my sponsors and family down.

Trek D departs

Soon it comes time for Trek D to leave and I say 'goodbye' to everyone. The group photograph is taken and I feel so sorry for myself. It is all I can do to hold back the tears as they depart. I watch them wander through Pheriche and out onto the moraine and up the Lobuche Khola valley... I really should be with them.

I feel quite alone as I saunter back into the 'sun room', though it is very peaceful now everybody has left. I just keep thinking of home and what everyone will think of me failing in my venture... and yet nobody will really know what I've been through... what discomfort I've suffered just to get to this height.

Trek D - ready to depart for EBC

The super view from the White Yak

I am writing all this in my diary as a helicopter flies up the valley and lands. For one moment I wished it would casevac me down the mountain and home.

One of the remaining Xtreme-Everest team (David) pops his head in to see how I am. His responsibility within the team is for calibrating the CPX equipment for validation purposes. We have a short chat - he too is leaving tomorrow, so we will both be on the trail, but in opposite directions.

It is so nice that people care and it all helps keep things in perspective. I try to think of more positive thoughts. I think about telephoning my wife to let her know I won't get to EBC, but decide against it, because it will only worry her... and cause her more concern. I decide to wait until I return to Namche before sending an email to my son, who can break the news and disappointment more gently than I ever can.

It is strange being here in Pheriche all alone. Most of the doctors have set off for Tengboche to use the Internet service (so much for me being kept under observation). Stupidly, I almost wish I'd taken a risk and continued onwards and upwards with Trek D, but it would not have been wise due to my feeling so weak and disoriented. There is no resident medical support at Lobuche (4,910 metres) and Gorak Shep (5,140 metres).

Trek E are due to arrive in Pheriche later, so at least I'll have some companionship before leaving for Dingboche (4,410 metres) tomorrow (situated 30 minutes walk over the ridge from Pheriche). I will have the embarrassment of explaining why I've not progressed with Trek D though. I understand that a porter from Trek E will be allocated to carry my 15kg holdall over to Dingboche, whilst I carry my 35 litre 'sack'.

Trek C is the group descending from EBC tomorrow, arriving in Dingboche early evening. I am to descend to Namche with them. However, I need to trek over the hill to Dingboche which is situated 200 metres higher than Pheriche. I am worried this exertion and height gain may trigger my 'demon' headache again... after I've only just got rid of it.

My nose is still very blocked and bloody so I will continue using saline drops, but I am no longer in any need of the painkillers. It is an amazing relief and a positive sign for the rest of my time in Nepal.

Meanwhile, I am lying in the sun chilling out, getting some well needed rest, reading my book and generally trying to de-stress. I go for a wander around Pheriche to take some last photos. I must start to feel more positive about my health if I am to make the most of this 'Everest' trip.

I visit the Himalayan Rescue Post and discover the Pheriche Lab staff have been to discuss my symptoms with their medics. This probably explains why the doctor was emphatic I wasn't suffering from AMS.

Returning to the White Yak, I find the porters from Trek E beginning to arrive. Shortly after, the trek members start to arrive in small groups looking knackered. I leave them to check-in as I remember how I'd felt so drained when I arrived the other day... which seems such a long time ago now.

Eating a bowl of soup for my evening meal, I make small talk with the Trek E Leader. Explaining my situation, he says he'll see if he can 'spare' a porter to accompany me to Dingboche (it is supposed to be their rest day apparently). He then goes on to recite a story of a friend of his, who had experienced similar symptoms to mine, only to find he had a banana-sized tumour on his brain. He encourages me to get this checked out as soon as I can when I get home. No doubt he has the best intentions in telling me this story, but I don't feel particularly comforted by his recital.

Politely excusing myself, I retire for yet another early night. I am exhausted, despite resting all day.

Pheriche [Day 10]

This really is hell

I have a really unsettled night and didn't get much sleep at all. Occasionally, I experience difficulty breathing, having to force myself to take deep breaths to avoid a panic attack. We were warned of the effects of altitude on our respiratory system, but it is still very disconcerting to experience it first-hand.

It is quite funny seeing this effect in others though. Sharing a room with Mike - during the night one minute he is breathing fine, then all goes quiet for ages, before he takes in a massive gulp of air and breathes again.

I only have a mild headache this morning which is good, but experience shows this will get worse as the day progresses. I felt very dizzy first thing which worries me, but this now seems to have settled down. I think I'll get my main testing out of the way, then try and book a shower.

Early morning testing goes ahead as normal and my results are: Resting - O2 84; HR 69; BR 10.  BP152/83; 146/82; 137/84.  After exercise - O2 78; HR 140; BR 18.

Oxygen saturation and beats per minute tests

Monitoring Mike's performance stats

Breakfast follows with porridge... and pancakes. Trying to eat and drink sufficiently to offset the wasting element of altitude is an ongoing battle... and that is when you are feeling OK. At altitude, food seems so much harder to eat and digest.

I manage to use the loo this morning, so that's another 'must-do' off the list and I must wash my disgusting hankies today as well.

It is my intention not to take more medication today unless I really have to. Nothing seems to alleviate the pain and the amount of tablets and sprays I have been taking recently cannot be conducive to good health. However, if the headache takes off again, I shall have no other alternative but to take Tramadol, as I cannot cope with the intense pressure and throbbing pain.

Other tests today - a blood test is scheduled for 0830hrs, the CPX ramp test for 1130hrs and spirometry at 1400hrs. It will be interesting to see how I perform at this altitude and what shows up on the CPX equipment. However, I am also getting paranoia about whether this will trigger another 'demon' headache.

CPX testing at altitude of 4,278 metres - not easy

The spirometry test goes well - 155% that expected for a man of my age and height. My CPX test peaks at 220w on a 20w ramp, which I'm pleased with considering my sea-level trial only achieved 253w on a 35w ramp. The Lab staff mentions that they expect a third less at this altitude - this seems to be confirmed with everybody else as well. During the test, for the first time I feel claustrophobic in the mask at full tilt, as if I couldn't get enough oxygen... but I complete it OK without ripping it off.

Max and Ralf (Cortex Biophysik GmbH) are taking numerous photos of me, presumably as it somehow might help record the effects of headaches and pain in someone at altitude. Everybody is very sympathetic of my 'migraines', despite others also feeling below par. I am however getting very angry about my 'ailment' now, brooding about a possible failure of getting to EBC.

I manage to get a shower, then feeling very clean and human again, I ring my wife. She tells me she has been without internet access at home, requesting I send emails to my son's address in future. I reassure her about my health, despite feeling very unsure about it myself. The phone call has to be kept short as it costs 300NR per minute - however, it was lovely to speak with her before being out of touch again.

Bloody hell

My headache has just returned with a vengeance. I experience something like a massive electrical shock going through my skull, from just below my eyes to the back of the head with a sharp crack. Intense, excruciating pain... throbbing incessantly... forcing me to vomit violently.

What can have happened - I feel so ill?

The Pheriche Lab doctor is summonsed and after another thorough examination, he prescribes 50mg Tramadol, 30mg Codeine and 400mg Ibuprofen to try and settle me down for the night... and it is only about 1700hrs.

During the examination, the doctor breaks the news that he can't permit me to go for EBC. He wants to monitor me for a further 24 hours. I am absolutely gutted, but can't object... I can barely raise my head off the bed without feeling sick, never mind consider trekking.

I keep rubbing my head trying to alleviate the pain, so much so it is making my skin sore - if only this would go. I feel nauseous and my head is pounding. This really isn't a hospitable place to fall ill, so far from civilisation and proper facilities. In an emergency situation I have just two choices - evacuation by helicopter or somehow trekking out.

I doze fitfully until about 2000hrs but still had a severe headache - so more medication is taken during the night which finally enables me to get to sleep.

This really feels like hell.

Pheriche [Day 9]

No improvement

What a hell hole for this second phase of our acclimatisation. Pheriche is a barren place with a few teahouses, lodges and the famous Himalayan Rescue Post. The moraine, river, rocks and dust dominate the village, encircled by high ridgelines of the surrounding mountains.

Pheriche moraine

In the afternoon, the cloud base descends and the temperature plummets, making everybody don their duvet jackets and wait for the yak dung burner to be lit in the lodge. A miserable existence. I feel quite sorry for the Pheriche Lab team who are here until June... particularly when the teams at Kathmandu and Namche (and even at Base Camp) have all the comforts of home... well almost.

This morning I wake with the same brutal headache.... I've had enough of this! This is despite a good sleep and drinking almost 1 litre of fluid overnight. However, I passed 1.5 litres of urine last night - a record so far. Just shows how altitude dehydrates the human body... and proves how right our trek leader was in dissuading us from drinking alcohol. It is hard enough taking on board enough fluid without having anything else to exacerbate the dehydration problem. My appetite for food has also waned. I can't help but think my headaches are somehow altitude-related, but the Kiwi doctor thinks not (as I had started getting headaches ever since arriving in Kathmandu).

We carried out our tests again religiously, despite a number of us not feeling well.  My results for today are: Resting O2 83; HR 67; BR 11.  BP 133/81; 145/82; 136/78.  After exercise O2 75; HR 138; BR 16.

Looking around the room this morning, you can see how this trek is affecting us all. My fellow trekkers look knackered and are sniffling and coughing. Many look like they are suffering from bad hangovers and are losing weight too.

Exhausted (courtesy of Felicity)

I am beginning to get very concerned about my severe headaches and their cause. I am an awful long way from home and any hospital. The upside is that the Pheriche doctors are on immediate call (and there are very competent doctors in my own team too), but I am worried what might happen if things deteriorate even further, especially as the next two stages before EBC do not have dedicated medical support. However, I now have a day of R & R ahead where I might be able to recharge my batteries and perhaps improve the situation. For the moment though we are all sitting in the dining room of the lodge trying to rest.

I meet with the Pheriche Lab doctor again to update him on my headaches. He seems satisfied with the outcome of his examination... and advises all I can do is keep taking the medication. To give you an idea, my 'intake' today is (at 0630hrs) 5 drops of Otrivine (each nostril); 2 inhalations Decomit (each nostril); 1,000mg paracetamol and 400mg Ibuprofen.  At 0830hrs one Sinex tablet. At 1035hrs a further 1,000mg paracetamol.  At 1220hrs 400mg Ibuprofen. At 1430hrs, yet another 1,000mg paracetamol. At 1615hrs, another Sinex tablet.

This is crazy... nothing is easing my severe headache.  Is it a result of AMS... how the hell do I know? If it is, the only recipe is descend, descend, descend. The last thing I want is to suffer an emergency evacuation at this altitude - I want to get home safe and sound to my family without any long lasting effects.

Why does the mind start to play tricks and talk to you like this when one doesn't feel well... I must snap out of this negative thinking!



Himalayan Rescue Centre, Pheriche

My headache continues to get worse and worse, resulting in yet another consultation with the Kiwi doctor at 1650hrs. He takes my temperature, checks my eyes with his torch and finger, looks in my throat, checks my teeth for sensitivity, taps my head in various places for tenderness. He really doesn't know what is causing the pain... maybe sinuses, migraine or cluster headaches... but he still doesn't think it is AMS.

He suggests a steam inhalation might help or a saltwater douche, as my nose is very dry and crusted with blood. The only thing he can do is try and manage the pain, so he prescribes 30mg Codeine (3 times daily) and 50mg Tramadol (4 times daily). I go to bed early again to try and get some respite.

I'm really not enjoying this experience now and have gone off my food feeling quite nauseous... what next?

Deboche to Pheriche [Day 8]

Not well at all

I wake early having had an excellent sleep, but as a preventative measure still take one Sinex tablet and a blast of Decomit up each nostril. No hint of a headache at all this morning - all my nasal passages are clear. Rather worryingly though, my left eye is watering badly... and I also have an immediate urge to use the loo.

I look out of the front door as the porters are getting ready to load the yaks. Someone has lit a juniper fire on the front step as a blessing to the mountain - its aroma fills the morning air. The sun is beating down again - so bright in the thin atmosphere, it reflects off everything.

I have a quick wash around my private parts with wet wipes to keep some semblance of cleanliness and get dressed in yesterday's grubby, dusty, sweaty clothes. I have now decided to avoid shaving until I return to Namche as very few lodges seem to have facilities... often just a cold (and I mean cold) tap. My thoughts flood suddenly back to home and all the creature comforts, particularly my wife and kids. I am missing them.

Testing this morning - Resting O2 90; HR 60; BR 13.  BP 130/83; 106/80; 119/78.  After exercise O2 85; HR 136; BR 13.

The walk up to Orsho via Lower Pangboche (3,874 metres) is delightful, contouring the Imja Khola river. The milky white waters tumble down the massive, rock strewn riverbed. Boulders as big as houses litter the floor, eroded from the high valley dominated by Ama Dablam.

Leaving the Deboche lodge

Fantastic images await

Pangboche

Lost in my own thoughts (photo courtesy of Ralf)

The weary walk of tired trekkers

'Namaste'

It was at this point when my worst fear was eventually realised. I develop one of my 'demon' migraine headaches and am pretty much out of it. Max (one of my fellow trekkers and an intensive care doctor), administers some Otripine drops for me, but this does not alleviate the pain.

Sunrise Guest House - refreshments

The afternoon walk I want to forget for ever. I stumble along, head throbbing and feeling sick. I am only driven by the requirement to reach the sanctuary of the White Yak at Pheriche (4,270 metres), so I can find a quiet, dark room and lie down.

A world of pain (photo courtesy of Felicity)

Last rest before descent to Pheriche

Pheriche... at long last

Sanctuary

I take a Sinex tablet at 1130hrs with 1,000mg paracetamol, two codeine tablets at 1520hrs, two inhalations of Decomit at 1700hrs, five drops of Otripine 1830hrs, 1,000mg Paracetamol 1845hrs, 400mg Ibuprofen at 1945hrs and finally 3 drops Otripine before going to bed.

I cannot go on like this, taking this amount of medication. I have never, ever in my life consumed so many drugs in such a short period of time.

After seeing me lying almost comatose on my sleeping bag, with a head feeling ready to explode, a concerned Mike goes to get the Pheriche Lab doctor. The young Kiwi doctor comes to see me and prescribes more Ibuprofen. I don't feel like getting up and stay cocooned in my sleeping bag in the freezing cold room. I am feeling sick and attempt to sleep.


Medics at Pheriche Lab