I feel very, very odd this morning. On the positive side my headache has disappeared, but I did't urinate during the night and my throat is bone dry. I am really, really thirsty. I am very light-headed and unsteady on my feet, quite shaky and feel most strange.
Breakfast is uninspiring - I just manage to stomach porridge but can't face the chapattis. I feel generally unwell with no energy at all. I just want to lie down and rest. Last night's experience seems to have completely drained me.
I struggle to complete the normal tests before breakfast and feel very fragile. The results are: Resting - O287; HR 67; BR 12. BP 161/88; 159/87; 154/88. After exercise - O276; HR 135; BR 22.
I also notice my blood pressure readings are rising, correlating to the higher altitude.
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| Pheriche - one of the routes to Everest |
Looking out the front door of the lodge, it is a beautiful morning. Snow has fallen overnight and the valley is carpeted with a white blanket. It is very bright and I am overly sensitive to light, having to squint to see. The light is so harsh up here due to the altitude.
I am fearful that my headache is going to return, particularly as it is the first time I have been totally pain-free since landing in Kathmandu.
After breakfast, I decide to update the doctor about my state of health. He confirms that he will not sign me off to continue to Base Camp. He has already made arrangements for me to descend down to Namche with another trek group. This means I will have to bid farewell to my Trek D buddies. I am absolutely gutted.
I am devastated it has come to this. I really wanted to get to EBC and contribute to the research into intensive care following the tragic loss of our grandson.
It is so hard not to feel a failure for not achieving my ambition to reach Base Camp. I also feel I have let my sponsors and family down.
Trek D departs
Soon it comes time for Trek D to leave and I say 'goodbye' to everyone. The group photograph is taken and I feel so sorry for myself. It is all I can do to hold back the tears as they depart. I watch them wander through Pheriche and out onto the moraine and up the Lobuche Khola valley... I really should be with them.
I feel quite alone as I saunter back into the 'sun room', though it is very peaceful now everybody has left. I just keep thinking of home and what everyone will think of me failing in my venture... and yet nobody will really know what I've been through... what discomfort I've suffered just to get to this height.
I am writing all this in my diary as a helicopter flies up the valley and lands. For one moment I wished it would casevac me down the mountain and home.
One of the remaining Xtreme-Everest team (David) pops his head in to see how I am. His responsibility within the team is for calibrating the CPX equipment for validation purposes. We have a short chat - he too is leaving tomorrow, so we will both be on the trail, but in opposite directions.
It is so nice that people care and it all helps keep things in perspective. I try to think of more positive thoughts. I think about telephoning my wife to let her know I won't get to EBC, but decide against it, because it will only worry her... and cause her more concern. I decide to wait until I return to Namche before sending an email to my son, who can break the news and disappointment more gently than I ever can.
It is strange being here in Pheriche all alone. Most of the doctors have set off for Tengboche to use the Internet service (so much for me being kept under observation). Stupidly, I almost wish I'd taken a risk and continued onwards and upwards with Trek D, but it would not have been wise due to my feeling so weak and disoriented. There is no resident medical support at Lobuche (4,910 metres) and Gorak Shep (5,140 metres).
Trek E are due to arrive in Pheriche later, so at least I'll have some companionship before leaving for Dingboche (4,410 metres) tomorrow (situated 30 minutes walk over the ridge from Pheriche). I will have the embarrassment of explaining why I've not progressed with Trek D though. I understand that a porter from Trek E will be allocated to carry my 15kg holdall over to Dingboche, whilst I carry my 35 litre 'sack'.
Trek C is the group descending from EBC tomorrow, arriving in Dingboche early evening. I am to descend to Namche with them. However, I need to trek over the hill to Dingboche which is situated 200 metres higher than Pheriche. I am worried this exertion and height gain may trigger my 'demon' headache again... after I've only just got rid of it.
My nose is still very blocked and bloody so I will continue using saline drops, but I am no longer in any need of the painkillers. It is an amazing relief and a positive sign for the rest of my time in Nepal.
Meanwhile, I am lying in the sun chilling out, getting some well needed rest, reading my book and generally trying to de-stress. I go for a wander around Pheriche to take some last photos. I must start to feel more positive about my health if I am to make the most of this 'Everest' trip.
I visit the Himalayan Rescue Post and discover the Pheriche Lab staff have been to discuss my symptoms with their medics. This probably explains why the doctor was emphatic I wasn't suffering from AMS.
Returning to the White Yak, I find the porters from Trek E beginning to arrive. Shortly after, the trek members start to arrive in small groups looking knackered. I leave them to check-in as I remember how I'd felt so drained when I arrived the other day... which seems such a long time ago now.
Eating a bowl of soup for my evening meal, I make small talk with the Trek E Leader. Explaining my situation, he says he'll see if he can 'spare' a porter to accompany me to Dingboche (it is supposed to be their rest day apparently). He then goes on to recite a story of a friend of his, who had experienced similar symptoms to mine, only to find he had a banana-sized tumour on his brain. He encourages me to get this checked out as soon as I can when I get home. No doubt he has the best intentions in telling me this story, but I don't feel particularly comforted by his recital.
Politely excusing myself, I retire for yet another early night. I am exhausted, despite resting all day.
After breakfast, I decide to update the doctor about my state of health. He confirms that he will not sign me off to continue to Base Camp. He has already made arrangements for me to descend down to Namche with another trek group. This means I will have to bid farewell to my Trek D buddies. I am absolutely gutted.
I am devastated it has come to this. I really wanted to get to EBC and contribute to the research into intensive care following the tragic loss of our grandson.
It is so hard not to feel a failure for not achieving my ambition to reach Base Camp. I also feel I have let my sponsors and family down.
Trek D departs
Soon it comes time for Trek D to leave and I say 'goodbye' to everyone. The group photograph is taken and I feel so sorry for myself. It is all I can do to hold back the tears as they depart. I watch them wander through Pheriche and out onto the moraine and up the Lobuche Khola valley... I really should be with them.
I feel quite alone as I saunter back into the 'sun room', though it is very peaceful now everybody has left. I just keep thinking of home and what everyone will think of me failing in my venture... and yet nobody will really know what I've been through... what discomfort I've suffered just to get to this height.
 |
| Trek D - ready to depart for EBC |
 |
| The super view from the White Yak |
I am writing all this in my diary as a helicopter flies up the valley and lands. For one moment I wished it would casevac me down the mountain and home.
One of the remaining Xtreme-Everest team (David) pops his head in to see how I am. His responsibility within the team is for calibrating the CPX equipment for validation purposes. We have a short chat - he too is leaving tomorrow, so we will both be on the trail, but in opposite directions.
It is so nice that people care and it all helps keep things in perspective. I try to think of more positive thoughts. I think about telephoning my wife to let her know I won't get to EBC, but decide against it, because it will only worry her... and cause her more concern. I decide to wait until I return to Namche before sending an email to my son, who can break the news and disappointment more gently than I ever can.
It is strange being here in Pheriche all alone. Most of the doctors have set off for Tengboche to use the Internet service (so much for me being kept under observation). Stupidly, I almost wish I'd taken a risk and continued onwards and upwards with Trek D, but it would not have been wise due to my feeling so weak and disoriented. There is no resident medical support at Lobuche (4,910 metres) and Gorak Shep (5,140 metres).
Trek E are due to arrive in Pheriche later, so at least I'll have some companionship before leaving for Dingboche (4,410 metres) tomorrow (situated 30 minutes walk over the ridge from Pheriche). I will have the embarrassment of explaining why I've not progressed with Trek D though. I understand that a porter from Trek E will be allocated to carry my 15kg holdall over to Dingboche, whilst I carry my 35 litre 'sack'.
Trek C is the group descending from EBC tomorrow, arriving in Dingboche early evening. I am to descend to Namche with them. However, I need to trek over the hill to Dingboche which is situated 200 metres higher than Pheriche. I am worried this exertion and height gain may trigger my 'demon' headache again... after I've only just got rid of it.
My nose is still very blocked and bloody so I will continue using saline drops, but I am no longer in any need of the painkillers. It is an amazing relief and a positive sign for the rest of my time in Nepal.
Meanwhile, I am lying in the sun chilling out, getting some well needed rest, reading my book and generally trying to de-stress. I go for a wander around Pheriche to take some last photos. I must start to feel more positive about my health if I am to make the most of this 'Everest' trip.
I visit the Himalayan Rescue Post and discover the Pheriche Lab staff have been to discuss my symptoms with their medics. This probably explains why the doctor was emphatic I wasn't suffering from AMS.
Returning to the White Yak, I find the porters from Trek E beginning to arrive. Shortly after, the trek members start to arrive in small groups looking knackered. I leave them to check-in as I remember how I'd felt so drained when I arrived the other day... which seems such a long time ago now.
Eating a bowl of soup for my evening meal, I make small talk with the Trek E Leader. Explaining my situation, he says he'll see if he can 'spare' a porter to accompany me to Dingboche (it is supposed to be their rest day apparently). He then goes on to recite a story of a friend of his, who had experienced similar symptoms to mine, only to find he had a banana-sized tumour on his brain. He encourages me to get this checked out as soon as I can when I get home. No doubt he has the best intentions in telling me this story, but I don't feel particularly comforted by his recital.
Politely excusing myself, I retire for yet another early night. I am exhausted, despite resting all day.
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