Monjo to Namche [Day 4]

Hard trek day

I am up early again in order to carry out our daily testing regime. My results for this morning are:
Resting: O2 92; HR 68; BR 12; BP 135/77; 116/78; 120/79. After exercise: O2 87; HR 138; BR 16.

Early morning testing

Early morning photo (courtesy of Felicity)

To reach Namche Bazaar (3,440 metres) today we trek along the Dudh Kosi valley, zigzagging the river across wire suspension bridges. It is spectacular. We take it nice and steady due to the heat. The steep inclines and altitude are starting to test us.

Wire suspension bridge

Prayer flags attached to the 'up river' side

An airy drop

Feats of engineering

The trail is very dusty coating everybody in a white film. The inside of my nostrils are crusted and filthy and I am looking forward to the cooler temperatures. This type of hot and dusty atmosphere plays havoc with my nasal passages.

Our Nepali guides

Porters carrying massive loads

The hot and dusty trekking trail

Rest break prior to the Namche 'hill'

Climbing the hill towards Namche, we manage to get our first glimpse of Everest through the trees. The loss of fluids through sweating, combined with the heat and dust, trigger another headache. At 1200hrs I take another 1,000mg of paracetamol to try and stem the discomfort.

As we enter Namche, an interesting blend of aromas floats by, ranging from sanitation through to cooking. Horses, chickens and yaks wander aimlessly around.

Beware of stray ponies

The climb up to Namche seems to take for ever. There are numerous stone steps through the village up to the lodge where we are due to stay. It is important to try use alternating legs to avoid stress on a particular limb. Topping out, we walk past a military camp on the knoll and head down into our lodge (which has a crashed Soviet type helicopter in its grounds).

The steep incline at Namche

Hotel Sherwi Khangba

As I am writing my diary, my headache seems to recede. I think the loss of sleep, combined with the heat and physical exertion are causal factors, but I will reserve judgement until I get higher into the colder atmosphere.

I manage to send an email to my darling wife at 1415hrs to let her know how I am. It costs 270NR - about £2.00. My aim this afternoon is to rest, have a shower and do some washing. I manage to go to the loo for a second time at 1430hrs - all OK thank goodness.

Sharing a room with Mike

Not a bad view from our window eh?

A shower is booked (200NR) and it is a scalding experience (I have to flick water on to me to wash). Nevertheless, I feel a whole lot better - even my headache seems to have eased. This additional spending is a little unexpected and I wish Jagged Globe had been more upfront about some of these 'extras'. Tomorrow, breakfast is scheduled for 0645hrs and I have also been given my programme of medical tests for the day. This means no food for 3 hours before the CPX at 1100hrs... damn it.

During the evening, there is a small presentation from the Namche Lab staff. We have been told to keep well hydrated to help with acclimatisation. Drinking alcohol is not advised.

Finally, before retiring, Llakpa (our Sirdar) offers to take us to a good viewing point at dawn to see the sun come up on Everest. This means rising at 0445hrs and meeting at 0500hrs. Strangely, just before bed my headache returns, resulting in a very uncomfortable night.