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Welcome to Nepal

Wednesday, 18 April 2007

Namche to Deboche [Day 7]

No respite

I wake at 0515hrs, still with a slight headache. I have slept well though. My water intake overnight is 0.50 litre... I must drink more than this to avoid the onset of dehydration and possible altitude mountain sickness. I take a further tablet of Sinex and two inhalations of Decomit for each nostril before I even get out of my bag.

Testing is due at 0600hrs this morning, with our kit downstairs for loading on the yaks. Breakfast is at 0700hrs and we need to be on the trail by 0800hrs. My results for today are: Resting - O2 88; HR 58; BR 9.  BP 140/86; 141/86; 131/87.  After exercise - O2 83; HR 140; BR 16.

It is a lovely walk from Namche to Fungithenga (Phunki Tenga 3,250 metres)... but as expected now, a severe headache develops. We have a short break to photograph the Tenzing Norgay Memorial along the way, providing another opportunity to take on valuable fluids.

Everest is the peak slightly left of centre, beneath the clouds
Tenzing Norgay Memorial
Some perspective on the trekking route
Fed up of headaches
Sagarmatha National Park signpost

Refreshment break at Kyangjuma (3,550 metres)

I'm currently sat in the river valley at Fungithenga (Phunki Tenga) waiting for lunch, not looking forward to the long slog up to Tengboche with a throbbing head. I slam down another 1,000mg Paracetamol Extra. The lunch arrives and was nice and we have a good rest before the climb uphill.

Loving the signs
Lunch break
Rhododendrons marking the way to Tengboche

Llakpa leads the way, taking it very steady making sure we don't over-exert ourselves. We have a good ascent through the rhododendrons and arrive at the plateau, where we wander out into the open and see the Tengboche Monastery (3,860 metres) in all its splendour. A magnificent sight.

Tengboche Monastery
Prayer flags

We wander down to the café where I purchase a hot chocolate doughnut and some lemon tea. Later we attend a Buddhist service at the Monastery - boots off and camera flash disabled - I listen to the chanting monks at prayer - wonderful. I manage to sneak a couple of discreet shots of the super colours inside the prayer hall.

Café Tengboche

We then descend to Deboche (3,710 metres), our lodge for the night - a short walk down a steep hill through a delightful rhododendron forest, crossing a stream and we arrive. What a super location.


My headache is still dominating my life, I take another 1,000mg of Paracetamol Extra and two inhalations of Decomit. Nothing seems to be able to solve my headache problem and it is causing me real concern, particularly for higher on the mountain.

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