- Locate the 'Blog Archive' on the right, just below the 'About Me' photo.
- Click on the Year '2006'
- Select the month of 'August'
- Click on the entry 'Xtreme Everest Trek 2007'
- Read that entry, then click on 'Newer post'
- Again, once you've read that particular post, click 'Newer Post'
Welcome to Nepal
Wednesday, 13 January 2016
How best to read this blog
As most blogs display the most recent post first, you will need to locate the first entry I made if you want to read it in sequence:
Friday, 15 May 2015
Nepal Earthquake Appeal
April 2015 Nepal earthquake
'The April 2015 Nepal earthquake killed over 8,000 people and injured more than 21,000. It occurred at 11:56 Nepal Standard Time on 25 April, with a magnitude of 7.8Mw or 8.1Mₛ and a maximum Mercalli Intensity of IX.'
Nepal earthquake: Dozens die in new tremor near Everest
'A major earthquake has struck eastern Nepal, near Mount Everest, two weeks after more than 8,000 people died in a devastating quake.'
Nepal Earthquake Appeal
'Thousands of people have died, millions more need urgent help. Please give a donation if you can.'
Nepal: The return of the mountain kingdom
'Why now is the time to visit Nepal, a country slowly getting back to its feet following the devastating earthquake last April.'
http://www.telegraph.co.uk/travel/destinations/asia/nepal/12102327/Nepal-The-return-of-the-mountain-kingdom.html
Lincs2Nepal
Lincs2Nepal was set up in January 2009 by Garry Goddard to continue his work with some of Nepal’s most marginalised people. The charity has been involved in various projects over the last 6 years and helped many people but the focus is now very much on helping the lower caste Tharu people living in villages around the town of Kohalpur in Western Nepal who, without our assistance, don’t have access to education. The main thing that we have learnt while working primarily with children and women is that we can provide shelter, food, clothes, love and understanding, but the only thing that truly makes a difference long term and offers a real chance and a brighter future is education - not just a token education but a quality, life changing education that will enable them to access opportunities that would otherwise be beyond reach.
'The April 2015 Nepal earthquake killed over 8,000 people and injured more than 21,000. It occurred at 11:56 Nepal Standard Time on 25 April, with a magnitude of 7.8Mw or 8.1Mₛ and a maximum Mercalli Intensity of IX.'
Nepal earthquake: Dozens die in new tremor near Everest
'A major earthquake has struck eastern Nepal, near Mount Everest, two weeks after more than 8,000 people died in a devastating quake.'
Nepal Earthquake Appeal
'Thousands of people have died, millions more need urgent help. Please give a donation if you can.'
Nepal: The return of the mountain kingdom
'Why now is the time to visit Nepal, a country slowly getting back to its feet following the devastating earthquake last April.'
http://www.telegraph.co.uk/travel/destinations/asia/nepal/12102327/Nepal-The-return-of-the-mountain-kingdom.html
Lincs2Nepal
Lincs2Nepal was set up in January 2009 by Garry Goddard to continue his work with some of Nepal’s most marginalised people. The charity has been involved in various projects over the last 6 years and helped many people but the focus is now very much on helping the lower caste Tharu people living in villages around the town of Kohalpur in Western Nepal who, without our assistance, don’t have access to education. The main thing that we have learnt while working primarily with children and women is that we can provide shelter, food, clothes, love and understanding, but the only thing that truly makes a difference long term and offers a real chance and a brighter future is education - not just a token education but a quality, life changing education that will enable them to access opportunities that would otherwise be beyond reach.
Thursday, 3 May 2007
Bahrain to Heathrow [Day 22]
No more solo adventures
We finally board the Airbus A330 for London Heathrow on time and take to our seats. I was squeezed in the centre aisle between James and Colin with Deborah in the end seat. Promptly all three fall asleep leaving me to play with the entertainment console and screen in front of me.
I discover about 20 channels of various programmes and end up watching something about historic F1... with Jackie Stewart, Niki Lauda and others. A interesting journey back into time watching some of these old Grand Prix that I remember so well.
The flight was pretty uneventful and I manage to sleep most of the way. I wake just in time for dinner - though many were still asleep and missed the meal altogether. This was a much better fare and I enjoy it immensely.
Arriving at Heathrow, I get excited about meeting the family again. I hurry out to baggage reclaim, pick up my holdall on my shoulder with rucksack on my back, say goodbye to each of the team and wander out into arrivals. My wife and son were waiting for me and much emotion is displayed with hugs all round... and shock at my gaunt look.
My 'once in a lifetime' adventure is finally over.
Extracts of the route from Everest Base Camp Map
Trek D Participants
http://www.deborahlaugharne.co.uk/
We finally board the Airbus A330 for London Heathrow on time and take to our seats. I was squeezed in the centre aisle between James and Colin with Deborah in the end seat. Promptly all three fall asleep leaving me to play with the entertainment console and screen in front of me.
I discover about 20 channels of various programmes and end up watching something about historic F1... with Jackie Stewart, Niki Lauda and others. A interesting journey back into time watching some of these old Grand Prix that I remember so well.
The flight was pretty uneventful and I manage to sleep most of the way. I wake just in time for dinner - though many were still asleep and missed the meal altogether. This was a much better fare and I enjoy it immensely.
Arriving at Heathrow, I get excited about meeting the family again. I hurry out to baggage reclaim, pick up my holdall on my shoulder with rucksack on my back, say goodbye to each of the team and wander out into arrivals. My wife and son were waiting for me and much emotion is displayed with hugs all round... and shock at my gaunt look.
My 'once in a lifetime' adventure is finally over.
 |
Memorial at Pheriche to all those
lost on Everest (courtesy of Harriet)
|
 |
| Everest Base Camp (courtesy of Harriet) |
 |
| Lukla to Monjo |
 |
| Monjo to Namche |
 |
| Namche to Tengboche |
 |
| Tengboche to Pheriche & Dingboche |
- Austin, Colin
- Bottomley, Nigel
- Bulmer, Felicity
- Gallally, James
- Hall, Geoff
- Henker, Ralf
- Innes, Stuart
- Jacobs, Dennis
- Jonas, Max
- Kemp, Harriet
- Laugharne, Debbie [Expedition Leader]
- Lee, Stewart
- Lew-Gor, Simione
- Payne, Mike
- Saddler, Julia
- Selzer, Nikolaus
- Williams, Nadia
http://www.deborahlaugharne.co.uk/
Wednesday, 2 May 2007
Kathmandu to Bahrain [Day 21]
No more tests
Waking early, we have the final physical tests before handing in our research diaries.
Waking early, we have the final physical tests before handing in our research diaries.
This morning my results were:
Resting - O2 95; HR 70; BR 9. BP 146/88; 128/84; 127/83. After exercise - O2 94; HR 123; BR 13.
I return the completed diary to the XE staff and question them over how my data would be utilised, particularly as my trek had differed somewhat from those of my colleagues on Trek D. I was told in no uncertain terms that my data would be amalgamated with all the other statistics after which it would all be analysed.
A contribution to medical research was a major driver for me when deciding to come on this expedition, especially that relating to intensive care, so I feel quite comforted in the knowledge that my data won't be discarded as 'invalid'.
Leaving the Summit Hotel for the last time, the heavens open and the rain pours down. Perhaps Kathmandu is shedding tears for our departure?
We get on the minibus, but as it navigates the narrow streets outside the hotel, we manage to get stuck in a 'traffic jam'. The road is barely wide enough for two vehicles to pass and the stubborn nature of Nepali drivers mean that often an impasse is reached, neither party moving forwards or backwards.
We are there for about 25 minutes, honking horns and moving backwards and forwards a couple of feet to let traffic through, with no real intent at reaching a resolution. Everybody is tense, not wishing to miss our flight. I feel like jumping out to direct the traffic, as the solution seems so obvious.
The humidity levels are rising in the bus and so are tempers... but the experienced Nepal travellers have seen it all before and are quite chilled about it. Finally, the main instigator, a tanker driver, sees the obvious solution and pulls out of the way down a side road, freeing up the situation.
We arrive at Kathmandu Airport and there is the usual scrummage to check holdalls in for weighing. Deborah decides to do this as a group, so as to offset any potential baggage excess - but chaos reigns after someone loses their boarding ticket. It is far easier to check in your own luggage, so there is individual responsibility. If there is excess baggage to pay, then that individual settles up.
My rucksack is given a cursory examination at security and I am released through for boarding. The flight is delayed slightly due to a missing passenger (perhaps the one with the missing boarding ticket), but within half an hour we are on our way, turbulence included.
The plane for this part of the flight is a Boeing 767-300 Gulf Traveller seating 257 in Economy Class. The flight is nothing spectacular and I sleep most of the way, apart from being wakened for lunch. A spicy rice and chicken dish, with a lychee and a carrot/cucumber mix. I don't find this appetising at all, leaving most of it on the plate. Hopefully the next flight meal will be better.
We arrive at Bahrain pretty much on time, but now have a six hour wait for our next flight at 0130hrs tomorrow morning. After the experience of sitting around in departures for an extensive period on our way out, we decide to pay the extra and go into the Executive Lounge.
Resting - O2 95; HR 70; BR 9. BP 146/88; 128/84; 127/83. After exercise - O2 94; HR 123; BR 13.
I return the completed diary to the XE staff and question them over how my data would be utilised, particularly as my trek had differed somewhat from those of my colleagues on Trek D. I was told in no uncertain terms that my data would be amalgamated with all the other statistics after which it would all be analysed.
A contribution to medical research was a major driver for me when deciding to come on this expedition, especially that relating to intensive care, so I feel quite comforted in the knowledge that my data won't be discarded as 'invalid'.
Leaving the Summit Hotel for the last time, the heavens open and the rain pours down. Perhaps Kathmandu is shedding tears for our departure?
We get on the minibus, but as it navigates the narrow streets outside the hotel, we manage to get stuck in a 'traffic jam'. The road is barely wide enough for two vehicles to pass and the stubborn nature of Nepali drivers mean that often an impasse is reached, neither party moving forwards or backwards.
 |
| Last day... and rain |
We are there for about 25 minutes, honking horns and moving backwards and forwards a couple of feet to let traffic through, with no real intent at reaching a resolution. Everybody is tense, not wishing to miss our flight. I feel like jumping out to direct the traffic, as the solution seems so obvious.
The humidity levels are rising in the bus and so are tempers... but the experienced Nepal travellers have seen it all before and are quite chilled about it. Finally, the main instigator, a tanker driver, sees the obvious solution and pulls out of the way down a side road, freeing up the situation.
We arrive at Kathmandu Airport and there is the usual scrummage to check holdalls in for weighing. Deborah decides to do this as a group, so as to offset any potential baggage excess - but chaos reigns after someone loses their boarding ticket. It is far easier to check in your own luggage, so there is individual responsibility. If there is excess baggage to pay, then that individual settles up.
My rucksack is given a cursory examination at security and I am released through for boarding. The flight is delayed slightly due to a missing passenger (perhaps the one with the missing boarding ticket), but within half an hour we are on our way, turbulence included.
The plane for this part of the flight is a Boeing 767-300 Gulf Traveller seating 257 in Economy Class. The flight is nothing spectacular and I sleep most of the way, apart from being wakened for lunch. A spicy rice and chicken dish, with a lychee and a carrot/cucumber mix. I don't find this appetising at all, leaving most of it on the plate. Hopefully the next flight meal will be better.
We arrive at Bahrain pretty much on time, but now have a six hour wait for our next flight at 0130hrs tomorrow morning. After the experience of sitting around in departures for an extensive period on our way out, we decide to pay the extra and go into the Executive Lounge.
For 27US$ this is good value. Reclining leather chairs, free food and drink, newspapers to read etc. We take full advantage of the facilities and the time passes quickly. I try to send a text message to the family, but my Sony Ericsson K700i battery is dead. I tried to source a charger, to no avail.
Impetuously, I decide to go down to Duty Free to see if I can buy a replacement charger, but none are compatible. I end up buying a new Sony Ericsson Z710i in duty free using my credit card. I settle down to charge it up in the Executive Lounge and attempt to send a message, but it won't send. By the time I find out what the problem was, time had run out and I was due on board.
So much for my 'great idea'.
 |
| Executive Lounge, Bahrain (photo courtesy of Ralf) |
Impetuously, I decide to go down to Duty Free to see if I can buy a replacement charger, but none are compatible. I end up buying a new Sony Ericsson Z710i in duty free using my credit card. I settle down to charge it up in the Executive Lounge and attempt to send a message, but it won't send. By the time I find out what the problem was, time had run out and I was due on board.
So much for my 'great idea'.
Tuesday, 1 May 2007
Lukla to Sinara to Kathmandu [Day 20]
Early flight out
I wake at 0515hrs in readiness for an early departure at Lukla Airstrip... the first flight out. I shake the two lads and then pack away my sleeping bag for the last time. A quick 'wash' with wet wipes and stumble downstairs with the holdalls, so the porters could take these for security clearance.
My thoughts return to home and I am quickly reminded that today is the anniversary of our grandson who sadly passed away a year ago. Goodness knows how my son and daughter-in-law must be feeling. I wish I was at home so that I could be there for them. It is also my dad's 79th birthday... and the poor chap is suffering from dementia in a care home.
Arriving at the departure hall, we find it is full of trekkers trying to get on the first flight out. Fortunately, our Sirdar and Trek Leader were up very early to get this reserved for us.
The time comes for us to say goodbye to the sirdar and his porters. It is really quite sad. We have been with them 24/7 for almost three weeks and they have become good friends. Llakpa seems genuinely upset to leave us. However, he is off to guide another trekking group to Base Camp very shortly, so he will have his hands full again in a couple of days.
We breeze through security and sit airside waiting for the first flight to arrive. It touches down safely and the last few snaps of Lukla Airport are taken.
Our holdalls are stowed, we are herded on-board, given cotton wool for our ears and a sweet to suck. I manage to get myself in a good position right behind the pilots, so I can take a video of the hairy take-off. The turnaround time for the aircraft is very short. Our own airport authorities could learn a trick or two from Lukla's slick operation.
The engines rev to a crescendo, the brakes release and we shoot off downhill towards the valley at the end of the runway. The pilot uses every inch, right to the warning lines at the bottom, only then rising into the air. How exhilarating. I capture the whole thing on my Olympus camera (no sound).
As we approach Kathmandu, there is clearly something amiss as the two pilots become very animated with their contact over the radio. It transpires there is a security incident at the main airport and we are to be diverted.
I look at the fuel gauges and we have less than 400lbs in each wing tank. A dangling warning tag informs me that there should always be a minimum of 200lbs retained in each tank. That doesn't seem to give us much leeway considering each tank has a maximum capacity of 2400lbs!
We fly for a further 15/20 minutes or so and land at Sinara Airport. I get out of the aircraft into tropical heat, compared with the early morning cool of Lukla.
There is the sound of insects and heat shimmers up from the ground. I am totally overdressed for this climate. I am in winter salopettes and a long sleeve wick away shirt. I seek the shade of the wing trying to keep cool, as the pilots wander off to get an update on the security position.
After 15/20 minutes we are on our way again and land at Kathmandu without any drama. We double up, carrying a couple of holdalls each, to the waiting bus. It requires some effort to fight off numerous taxi drivers offering to take our bags for a tip. Once we board the minibus, we are off through the manic traffic of Kathmandu.
I take a rather shaky video of the arrival back at the Summit Hotel (no sound).
As soon as we arrive, the XE medical staff take control and we are whisked away to be weighed. I have lost over 3kg and am now down to 63kg. I was aged 17 the last time I was at this weight - remarkable. To make up for this weight loss we all dive into breakfast, looking forward to the change of diet. I eat fresh fruit, a bread roll and jam, fruit juice, omelette, coffee and tea.
Mike and I are allocated Room 104 this time. It has nice parquet flooring, cane furniture, a ceiling fan, twin beds and a conventional loo and shower in an en-suite... and hot water. It is downright luxury.
There is a knock at the door and the hotel porter brings Mike and I our spare clothing. We had left this behind as part of the baggage weight reduction. I had made sure I kept two pairs of trousers, a couple of shirts, spare underwear and handkerchiefs for the final two days in Nepal. I am so glad I planned in advance.
I manage to phone my wife to let her know I am back in Kathmandu and looking forward to coming home. I decide to exchange £40 into rupees as we are out for a final 'Trek D' meal tonight - Thai I think. Rather than take a taxi, Mike and I decide to find our own way to Thamel... and what a cultural experience that is!
Thamel
I am armed with my trusty Silva compass, Mike with the map. We wander down side streets, observing at all the micro businesses operating out of shanty shacks. Some are recycling wire cables, burning off the outer plastic to get at the copper wire within - toxic fumes everywhere. No protection at all. Health and Safety - what's that?
We come across an old pedestrian suspension bridge which spans a filthy, polluted river that carves its way through the city. The locals stare at us as if we were the only Westerners ever to venture down these parts. We pass a couple of sleeping dogs, only to find them dead, left to rot in the street. One was a little puppy, its glassy eyes not registering the living world anymore. A harsh end to 'man's best friend'.
The busy traffic expresses its frustrations at pedestrians and vehicles alike. You take your life in your hands when choosing to wander through streets like this. Drivers lean on their horns at the slightest provocation. After breathing in pollution and deftly dodging traffic, we manage to locate the Kathmandu Guest House and close by, the Yin Yang Thai in Thamel.
Mike and I order two large bottles of San Miguel and settle down to watch the street life. Julia and Harriet were first to arrive, clutching numerous shopping bags. The rest of the team then begin to surface, with some unexpected visitors too.
A Radio 4 journalist carrying out research on porters in Nepal joins us. She is walking from Jiri to EBC for a feature on trekking. Another Jagged Globe leader is present, accompanying a chap from Trek G or H. He had been advised to return to Kathmandu because of shortness of breath whilst trekking.
We have a lovely meal and the chatter was incessant. Harriet asked me to say a few words to say thankyou to Deborah for leading Trek D. I jot down a few words, following the keep it short and simple mantra:
"Deborah, on behalf of trek D I would like to say a big thank you for your professionalism, your care and assistance and your friendship throughout the last 20 days or so. You expertly managed us, from the novice walker through to the more experienced adventurer. This is a little token of our appreciation. (Harriet to hand out presents). Please raise your glasses for Debbie."
After the meal we all jumped into taxis for the journey back to The Summit Hotel. I decided to go for a last beer and Lynn (Kathmandu XE Medical Centre) joined me to ask what had happened to me during the trek. After filling her in with the details, I finished my beer and departed for bed.
I wake at 0515hrs in readiness for an early departure at Lukla Airstrip... the first flight out. I shake the two lads and then pack away my sleeping bag for the last time. A quick 'wash' with wet wipes and stumble downstairs with the holdalls, so the porters could take these for security clearance.
My thoughts return to home and I am quickly reminded that today is the anniversary of our grandson who sadly passed away a year ago. Goodness knows how my son and daughter-in-law must be feeling. I wish I was at home so that I could be there for them. It is also my dad's 79th birthday... and the poor chap is suffering from dementia in a care home.
Arriving at the departure hall, we find it is full of trekkers trying to get on the first flight out. Fortunately, our Sirdar and Trek Leader were up very early to get this reserved for us.
The time comes for us to say goodbye to the sirdar and his porters. It is really quite sad. We have been with them 24/7 for almost three weeks and they have become good friends. Llakpa seems genuinely upset to leave us. However, he is off to guide another trekking group to Base Camp very shortly, so he will have his hands full again in a couple of days.
We breeze through security and sit airside waiting for the first flight to arrive. It touches down safely and the last few snaps of Lukla Airport are taken.
 |
| Lukla Airport |
 |
| Our flight awaits |
Our holdalls are stowed, we are herded on-board, given cotton wool for our ears and a sweet to suck. I manage to get myself in a good position right behind the pilots, so I can take a video of the hairy take-off. The turnaround time for the aircraft is very short. Our own airport authorities could learn a trick or two from Lukla's slick operation.
The engines rev to a crescendo, the brakes release and we shoot off downhill towards the valley at the end of the runway. The pilot uses every inch, right to the warning lines at the bottom, only then rising into the air. How exhilarating. I capture the whole thing on my Olympus camera (no sound).
As we approach Kathmandu, there is clearly something amiss as the two pilots become very animated with their contact over the radio. It transpires there is a security incident at the main airport and we are to be diverted.
I look at the fuel gauges and we have less than 400lbs in each wing tank. A dangling warning tag informs me that there should always be a minimum of 200lbs retained in each tank. That doesn't seem to give us much leeway considering each tank has a maximum capacity of 2400lbs!
We fly for a further 15/20 minutes or so and land at Sinara Airport. I get out of the aircraft into tropical heat, compared with the early morning cool of Lukla.
 |
| Sinara Airfield (photo courtesy of Ralf) |
 |
| Every bit of shade helps |
There is the sound of insects and heat shimmers up from the ground. I am totally overdressed for this climate. I am in winter salopettes and a long sleeve wick away shirt. I seek the shade of the wing trying to keep cool, as the pilots wander off to get an update on the security position.
 |
| Pre-flight checks |
After 15/20 minutes we are on our way again and land at Kathmandu without any drama. We double up, carrying a couple of holdalls each, to the waiting bus. It requires some effort to fight off numerous taxi drivers offering to take our bags for a tip. Once we board the minibus, we are off through the manic traffic of Kathmandu.
I take a rather shaky video of the arrival back at the Summit Hotel (no sound).
As soon as we arrive, the XE medical staff take control and we are whisked away to be weighed. I have lost over 3kg and am now down to 63kg. I was aged 17 the last time I was at this weight - remarkable. To make up for this weight loss we all dive into breakfast, looking forward to the change of diet. I eat fresh fruit, a bread roll and jam, fruit juice, omelette, coffee and tea.
Mike and I are allocated Room 104 this time. It has nice parquet flooring, cane furniture, a ceiling fan, twin beds and a conventional loo and shower in an en-suite... and hot water. It is downright luxury.
There is a knock at the door and the hotel porter brings Mike and I our spare clothing. We had left this behind as part of the baggage weight reduction. I had made sure I kept two pairs of trousers, a couple of shirts, spare underwear and handkerchiefs for the final two days in Nepal. I am so glad I planned in advance.
Now, sitting here in my underwear, I am waiting for Mike to finish his ablutions so that I can have my own shower and shave. It is so nice to be back in civilisation again.
The Summit Hotel is such a tranquil place - with birds tweeting in the trees and attentive staff. It is just nice to be chilling with no destination to walk to.
I must take the time to sort out my holdall for the flight home. First priority will be to make sure I have everything I need in my back pack, then everything else can be stuffed in the holdall.
I book a head/shoulder massage for this afternoon as a treat for myself. This will cost 950NR. Some lads have already visited a barber down the road for a cut throat shave, haircut and head & shoulder massage... all for 200NR. Bargain - the only problem is that they all look like clones of each other.
Mike and I put all the costs of lunch, drinks and telephone calls on our room, so we can split the cost before we leave tomorrow. We can then get rid of the remaining rupees and dollars. Our flight is scheduled for 1700hrs, so we have to leave the Summit Hotel by 1300hrs. I do hope the flight isn't delayed.
The Summit Hotel is such a tranquil place - with birds tweeting in the trees and attentive staff. It is just nice to be chilling with no destination to walk to.
I must take the time to sort out my holdall for the flight home. First priority will be to make sure I have everything I need in my back pack, then everything else can be stuffed in the holdall.
 |
| Summit Hotel |
 |
| Gardens |
I book a head/shoulder massage for this afternoon as a treat for myself. This will cost 950NR. Some lads have already visited a barber down the road for a cut throat shave, haircut and head & shoulder massage... all for 200NR. Bargain - the only problem is that they all look like clones of each other.
Mike and I put all the costs of lunch, drinks and telephone calls on our room, so we can split the cost before we leave tomorrow. We can then get rid of the remaining rupees and dollars. Our flight is scheduled for 1700hrs, so we have to leave the Summit Hotel by 1300hrs. I do hope the flight isn't delayed.
I manage to phone my wife to let her know I am back in Kathmandu and looking forward to coming home. I decide to exchange £40 into rupees as we are out for a final 'Trek D' meal tonight - Thai I think. Rather than take a taxi, Mike and I decide to find our own way to Thamel... and what a cultural experience that is!
Thamel
I am armed with my trusty Silva compass, Mike with the map. We wander down side streets, observing at all the micro businesses operating out of shanty shacks. Some are recycling wire cables, burning off the outer plastic to get at the copper wire within - toxic fumes everywhere. No protection at all. Health and Safety - what's that?
We come across an old pedestrian suspension bridge which spans a filthy, polluted river that carves its way through the city. The locals stare at us as if we were the only Westerners ever to venture down these parts. We pass a couple of sleeping dogs, only to find them dead, left to rot in the street. One was a little puppy, its glassy eyes not registering the living world anymore. A harsh end to 'man's best friend'.
The busy traffic expresses its frustrations at pedestrians and vehicles alike. You take your life in your hands when choosing to wander through streets like this. Drivers lean on their horns at the slightest provocation. After breathing in pollution and deftly dodging traffic, we manage to locate the Kathmandu Guest House and close by, the Yin Yang Thai in Thamel.
Mike and I order two large bottles of San Miguel and settle down to watch the street life. Julia and Harriet were first to arrive, clutching numerous shopping bags. The rest of the team then begin to surface, with some unexpected visitors too.
A Radio 4 journalist carrying out research on porters in Nepal joins us. She is walking from Jiri to EBC for a feature on trekking. Another Jagged Globe leader is present, accompanying a chap from Trek G or H. He had been advised to return to Kathmandu because of shortness of breath whilst trekking.
We have a lovely meal and the chatter was incessant. Harriet asked me to say a few words to say thankyou to Deborah for leading Trek D. I jot down a few words, following the keep it short and simple mantra:
"Deborah, on behalf of trek D I would like to say a big thank you for your professionalism, your care and assistance and your friendship throughout the last 20 days or so. You expertly managed us, from the novice walker through to the more experienced adventurer. This is a little token of our appreciation. (Harriet to hand out presents). Please raise your glasses for Debbie."
After the meal we all jumped into taxis for the journey back to The Summit Hotel. I decided to go for a last beer and Lynn (Kathmandu XE Medical Centre) joined me to ask what had happened to me during the trek. After filling her in with the details, I finished my beer and departed for bed.
Monday, 30 April 2007
Namche to Lukla [Day 19]
Long haul to Lukla
Back with my Trek D colleagues, the physical testing regime continues. My results today are:
Resting - O2 89; HR 67; BR 11. BP 149/81; 133/83; 138/79. After exercise: O2 88; HR 116; BR 16.
I am pleased to leave Namche behind, having been based there for a few days now. I sense a slightly muted 'goodbye' from the XE permanent staff as we departed - maybe the social dynamics with other trek groups were better.
We have a lovely trek out this morning. I have a good chat with Dawa (our guide) about his education and family. I also enjoy the company of Deborah (Trek Leader) talking about climbing, the management of funds as trek leader and the general group dynamics after I was left behind at Pheriche.
If you are interested in finding out more about her background.: www.deborahlaugharne.co.uk
My legs are slightly sore from not having put Factor 50 on yesterday. I start off with shorts this morning, but as the weather starts to get blustery, drizzly and cloudy, I fasten the bottoms back on my trousers.
We are now at Phakding waiting for lunch. The weather has changed again, the sunshine is beating down and we are drinking lemon teas, white/black coffees and normal tea. This place is about halfway between Namche and Lukla. It is noticeable there are less photos being taken now we are on the way down.
I am feeling introspective today. Tomorrow is the anniversary of Sam's death (our first grandson). His passing is one of the main reasons for me being on this trip. I cannot believe it is a year since my family were going through those horrendous few days.
It was nice therefore to have the company of an extra companion for most of the day - a very friendly dog. He joined the group at Namche and walked virtually all the way to Lukla. He did not appear to be a stray, as his coat was in superb condition. He sits with me at most of the rest stops while I fuss him and feed him titbits. As we approach Lukla, he seems to know this is his limit and turns back to make the journey home, wherever that was. He was a nice interlude to my otherwise dark thoughts.
I really hope the research gained from my difficult ascent and the expedition as a whole helps those Intensive Care Units and Special Baby Care Units in the UK. The doctors who were caring for me advise that my results will still be valid, despite me not having achieved the height of Base Camp and the medication taken.
It has been a very hot, sweaty day and a long haul into Lukla. Walking down the main 'street' of Lukla, it is amazing how much you miss on the way out. There were far more shops/outlets than I remember. Tunnel vision towards the mountains I suppose.
Finally, we arrive at the Eco Paradise Hotel. What a lovely hostelry for the very last night in the Khumbu. The lady owner not only looks after the day-to-day running of the hotel, she is also an air traffic controller at Lukla and a well respected member of the community.
We have a enjoyable evening. A couple of beers with good food and terrific company. I share the contents of my hip flask with our sirdar and porters and toast their unswerving dedication to our group throughout the trek. Excellent service indeed.
I am billeted in a triple-bed room, with Mike and Sim, both lovely blokes. No snoring - sheer bliss.
Back with my Trek D colleagues, the physical testing regime continues. My results today are:
Resting - O2 89; HR 67; BR 11. BP 149/81; 133/83; 138/79. After exercise: O2 88; HR 116; BR 16.
I am pleased to leave Namche behind, having been based there for a few days now. I sense a slightly muted 'goodbye' from the XE permanent staff as we departed - maybe the social dynamics with other trek groups were better.
We have a lovely trek out this morning. I have a good chat with Dawa (our guide) about his education and family. I also enjoy the company of Deborah (Trek Leader) talking about climbing, the management of funds as trek leader and the general group dynamics after I was left behind at Pheriche.
If you are interested in finding out more about her background.: www.deborahlaugharne.co.uk
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| Astonishing loads |
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| Ice cold waters |
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| Rest stop for porters |
My legs are slightly sore from not having put Factor 50 on yesterday. I start off with shorts this morning, but as the weather starts to get blustery, drizzly and cloudy, I fasten the bottoms back on my trousers.
We are now at Phakding waiting for lunch. The weather has changed again, the sunshine is beating down and we are drinking lemon teas, white/black coffees and normal tea. This place is about halfway between Namche and Lukla. It is noticeable there are less photos being taken now we are on the way down.
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| Relaxing in the warmth of the sun |
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| Weary trekkers |
I am feeling introspective today. Tomorrow is the anniversary of Sam's death (our first grandson). His passing is one of the main reasons for me being on this trip. I cannot believe it is a year since my family were going through those horrendous few days.
It was nice therefore to have the company of an extra companion for most of the day - a very friendly dog. He joined the group at Namche and walked virtually all the way to Lukla. He did not appear to be a stray, as his coat was in superb condition. He sits with me at most of the rest stops while I fuss him and feed him titbits. As we approach Lukla, he seems to know this is his limit and turns back to make the journey home, wherever that was. He was a nice interlude to my otherwise dark thoughts.
 |
| Welcome companion |
I really hope the research gained from my difficult ascent and the expedition as a whole helps those Intensive Care Units and Special Baby Care Units in the UK. The doctors who were caring for me advise that my results will still be valid, despite me not having achieved the height of Base Camp and the medication taken.
 |
| Dawa and Llakpa |
It has been a very hot, sweaty day and a long haul into Lukla. Walking down the main 'street' of Lukla, it is amazing how much you miss on the way out. There were far more shops/outlets than I remember. Tunnel vision towards the mountains I suppose.
Finally, we arrive at the Eco Paradise Hotel. What a lovely hostelry for the very last night in the Khumbu. The lady owner not only looks after the day-to-day running of the hotel, she is also an air traffic controller at Lukla and a well respected member of the community.
 |
| Eco Paradise Hotel |
We have a enjoyable evening. A couple of beers with good food and terrific company. I share the contents of my hip flask with our sirdar and porters and toast their unswerving dedication to our group throughout the trek. Excellent service indeed.
I am billeted in a triple-bed room, with Mike and Sim, both lovely blokes. No snoring - sheer bliss.
Sunday, 29 April 2007
Tengboche to Namche [Day 18]
Getting stronger and stronger
I have another good sleep. This morning I actually find a sit-down loo in Tengboche (a rare commodity). On the trail again, I feel really strong and am up front most of the time, bounding up the steep slopes.
I have another good sleep. This morning I actually find a sit-down loo in Tengboche (a rare commodity). On the trail again, I feel really strong and am up front most of the time, bounding up the steep slopes.
There is a strenuous ascent through Khumjung to the Everest View Hotel. A number of people start to drop behind and we arrive in fragmented groups.
Everybody finally reaches the top and wander into the plush hotel. Many order drinks and sit chatting, recovering from the rigours of the day.
Before we leave for Namche, there is the usual problem with trying to get a group of people to pay a bill, exacerbated by the fact many are running short of NR.
After the bill is paid, we descend the mountain side into Namche. We then have to climb up the numerous steps to the Sherwi Khangba lodge.
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| Toiling up the slope |
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| One of our guides with Mike (on the right) |
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| Dawa - one of our guides |
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| Arduous path to the Tengboche Monastery (Centre) |
Everybody finally reaches the top and wander into the plush hotel. Many order drinks and sit chatting, recovering from the rigours of the day.
Before we leave for Namche, there is the usual problem with trying to get a group of people to pay a bill, exacerbated by the fact many are running short of NR.
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| Everest View Hotel |
After the bill is paid, we descend the mountain side into Namche. We then have to climb up the numerous steps to the Sherwi Khangba lodge.
It has been a very hot and humid day, so if this continues into tomorrow, I think I will trek out in my shorts. It is three days since I have washed and showered properly, considerably more for my Trek D colleagues following their ascent to Base Camp. I therefore anticipate there will some competition for the Namche showers tonight. I will leave my shower until others have taken theirs.
I must also check set aside sufficient funds to pay for my airport departure taxes and tips for the sirdar and porters. I need about 4200NR, leaving me with 700NR and £60 to get me home.
I enjoy my shower as hot water sluices away the day's filth. I feel like a new man dressed in clean clothes. Tonight the permanent staff are supposed to be organising a 'farewell party' in 'Club Namche'... as there was for Trek C.
No doubt the dynamics will be different with Trek D. I'm not interested in drinking alcohol tonight, nor do I wish to participate in any dance routines. Tomorrow is going to be a hard day walking to Lukla, so the last thing I want is a late night and a hangover, especially since I am only just rid of headaches and nausea.
The evening is as expected. An entertainment evening of drink and Ceroc dancing. It is nice that this has been arranged as a farewell 'party' by the permanent XE staff at Namche, but I believe our group would have been just as content to have a couple of beers and a natter, a few games of pool and then drift off to bed.
Mike and I leave around 2100hrs, although we were encouraged to stay the course. As far as I'm concerned, the proper celebration for Trek D will be the meal in Kathmandu.
I must also check set aside sufficient funds to pay for my airport departure taxes and tips for the sirdar and porters. I need about 4200NR, leaving me with 700NR and £60 to get me home.
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| Nice image of the Namche 'bowl' |
I enjoy my shower as hot water sluices away the day's filth. I feel like a new man dressed in clean clothes. Tonight the permanent staff are supposed to be organising a 'farewell party' in 'Club Namche'... as there was for Trek C.
No doubt the dynamics will be different with Trek D. I'm not interested in drinking alcohol tonight, nor do I wish to participate in any dance routines. Tomorrow is going to be a hard day walking to Lukla, so the last thing I want is a late night and a hangover, especially since I am only just rid of headaches and nausea.
The evening is as expected. An entertainment evening of drink and Ceroc dancing. It is nice that this has been arranged as a farewell 'party' by the permanent XE staff at Namche, but I believe our group would have been just as content to have a couple of beers and a natter, a few games of pool and then drift off to bed.
Mike and I leave around 2100hrs, although we were encouraged to stay the course. As far as I'm concerned, the proper celebration for Trek D will be the meal in Kathmandu.
We will be up early tomorrow. 0500hrs to watch the sun up on Everest, testing at 0600hrs, with breakfast at 0630hrs and away by 0700hrs.
Night night.
Night night.
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